When to prune fruit trees. The subtleties of pruning fruit trees

Planting a seedling in the ground does not guarantee that the garden will grow lush and fruitful. All crops grown on the site require constant attention of the owner, regardless of the season.

Pruning fruit trees is one of the most important steps in gardening. It allows you to form the correct crown, regulate growth and fruiting. In addition, proper pruning of fruit trees can prolong their productivity. You will find all the necessary recommendations in our article.

Proper pruning of fruit trees

Pruning refers to the removal of dry and damaged branches and shoots. In addition, in the process, extra branches are cut out, which thicken the crown and reduce the quality of the crop (Figure 1).

Why carry out

Proper pruning also performs a sanitary function. Getting rid of excess branches helps prevent diseases, and a rejuvenating procedure can extend the life of the plant.

Figure 1. Types of pruning fruit crops

It is important to choose the right time to remove branches. It is best to do this in autumn or early spring, when the sap has not yet begun to flow in the trunk. At the same time, autumn thinning is possible only in regions with a mild climate, since severe frosts can damage the crop at the cut site.

Methods and techniques (shortening, thinning)

There are two main cropping methods: thinning and shortening (Figure 2). Each of them has its own characteristics.

Figure 2. Trimming techniques: shortening and thinning

Shortening involves the partial removal of branches and shoots. For example, if 1/5 or ¼ of the shoot is cut off, such shortening is called weak, when 1/3 or ½ is removed, it is medium, and from half to 2/3 is called strong.

In the process of shortening, rejuvenation is also carried out. For a light branch, the growth of the last 2-3 years is cut off, for a moderate one, a 4-6-year growth is removed, and for a strong one, almost the entire part of the skeletal branches is removed.

Note: By shortening, you can stimulate the growth of buds and shoots, as well as make the fruiting branches thicker. However, shortening too much can cause the plant to weaken and yields will decrease.

Thinning allows you to remove extra branches from the crown. Using this method, you can increase the size of the fruit and make the tree stronger and more productive. This reduces the number of buds that only consume the juices of the culture, but do not produce fruits. Juice flows faster from the roots to the leaves, the culture grows faster and bears fruit more intensively.

You will find more useful information about cropping in the video.

Trimming types

Depending on the purpose for which extra branches are cut, there are several types of pruning. For example, using this procedure, you can form a crown of the desired size and shape, prolong the fruiting period of a tree, or prevent the development of a disease.

Each type has its own characteristics, although it is carried out using the same garden tools and techniques.

To form a crown

Such a procedure is called forming. It is especially relevant for small household plots. With the help of these manipulations, you can create a compact crown, while maintaining a high level of fruiting (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Formative cutting technique

Removing branches to form a crown allows you to give the plant a suitable silhouette. In addition, the formed skeletal part becomes more resistant to stress. Depending on the timing of the formative pruning, growth can be slowed down or increased. If branches are removed in February, growth will be more active, and cutting in early spring will slow down the development of the culture.

Regulating fruiting

Most often, it is carried out at the end of winter or early spring, but in regions with a mild climate, branches can be removed in the fall.

The main purpose of regulating pruning is to preserve the contours of the crown and to maintain optimum illumination of the branches. In addition, skeletal branches are strengthened in the process. They are not overloaded with young shoots, and the fruits become larger and ripen evenly.

Restorative

In the process, branches and shoots with mechanical or any other damage are removed. As a rule, they are removed in the spring, in the process of checking the garden after winter.

Some of the branches may freeze slightly, so they need to be shortened to healthy wood. Also cut off all shoots with signs of disease or damage. This will preserve the viability and fruiting of the culture.

Anti-aging

It is required for old trees, which, due to long growth, stop or significantly reduce fruiting. In the process, all old branches that form too small fruits or not enough ovaries are removed (Figure 4).

Figure 4. Features of anti-aging pruning

Anti-aging pruning stimulates the growth of new branches. As a rule, the annual growth (about 10-15 cm) is removed in the process, which stimulates the growth of the kidneys and increases the yield.

Terms of pruning fruit trees (when is it better to do)

When wondering when it is better to prune an orchard, we can say that autumn, winter and spring are considered the optimal time, when the movement of juice in the trunk stops and the plant is at rest.

In regions with severe winters, it is recommended to remove branches in autumn or spring so that the cut point is not damaged by frost and the tree does not die. Consider the features of this procedure by season.

autumn

Experienced gardeners advise pruning garden crops in the fall only when absolutely necessary. For example, stone fruits do not tolerate such an event very well and may even die without having time to get stronger before frost.

However, these warnings do not apply to sanitary cleaning. If you find diseased or damaged branches, they must be removed immediately to save the rest of the plant.

The author of the video will talk about the main features of autumn pruning.

in winter

In severe frosts, the wood becomes very fragile, so it is not recommended to remove it. In fact, this is the only limitation, because in winter all plants are at rest and branches can be removed freely if the weather is relatively warm and calm.

Figure 5. Pruning an orchard in winter

The main advantage of the procedure is that the tree experiences less stress and the wound heals faster. In addition, on branches devoid of leaves, damage is much more visible (Figure 5).

spring

It is believed that pruning can be started at any time with the onset of spring. Actually this is not true. It is better to start the procedure when the sap flow has not yet begun, but the tree is already ready to wake up. In this case, the culture will not experience severe stress, and the wound will heal faster (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Spring pruning of the orchard

Since the timing of the removal of damaged branches and growth in different crops differs, the gardener gets the opportunity to plan work in such a way as to provide all the trees with the necessary care.

It is advisable to start work on a quiet windless day at a temperature not lower than -5 degrees. All wounds are covered with garden pitch or yellow clay to speed up the formation of a colus.

Summer

In summer, special attention is paid to seedlings. On them, you need to remove the tops of the growing shoots to form a crown.

However, when diseases are detected, infected branches are removed without waiting for the cessation of sap flow. If this is not done, the disease can quickly spread throughout the garden. All remote branches should be burned immediately.

Pruning fruit trees in winter

The most important requirement for pruning fruit trees in winter is the absence of severe frost. If the air temperature is below -8 degrees, work cannot be carried out.

Note: Even though the plants are dormant in winter and are more stressed after the removal of the branches, in severe frost the wound will take too long to heal and can lead to the death of the entire crop.

However, in winter it is much easier to detect damage, since the crown is completely devoid of foliage and defects become more noticeable. It also allows you to make the cut more even and accurate. It is better to remove thin branches with secateurs, and file thick ones on both sides so that the cut is even and healthy wood is not injured.

Choice of cropping tools

To remove branches, you need to use special tools. The main garden tools include (Figure 7):

Secateurs- it is better to choose a regular model, and not a ratchet tool, since it will have to be pressed several times to cut. Using a simple pruner is much easier and more convenient.
Hacksaw with gaps between teeth. This design will prevent the accumulation of sawdust and keep inventory clean. For gardening, only a special hacksaw is chosen, which is not recommended for use for other work, so that the blade does not become dull.
Air sector- a tool with a telescopic handle to which the blades are attached. To make a cut, it is enough to use a special lever. Such a tool will be very useful for cutting the upper branches.

Figure 7. Basic garden pruning tools

In addition to inventory, you need to buy garden pitch - a special ointment that is used to cover wounds on branches for faster healing.

Which is planted for decorative purposes or for production, requires pruning, which must be carried out according to certain rules, otherwise there will be more harm than good. Today we will talk about cropping rules and discuss the need for such actions, as well as describe in detail the whole process.

Why prune

Let's start with the fact that pruning of trees is carried out not only in spring, but also in summer / autumn, respectively, depending on the season, the purpose of pruning also varies.

Formative cutting. Such actions are carried out both to form the crown of a tree or bush in order to create the desired shape, and to obtain symmetry so that the crop ripens evenly on all branches without overloading a separate part.

To regulate fruiting. It is carried out exclusively for crops that produce a crop. The point is to adjust the fruiting period and frequency.

To improve lighting. The fact is that the upper branches can be so dense that the lower ones will not receive light at all, because of which the products will begin to ripen at different times and have different quality. It is carried out to increase productivity.

Did you know? Using pruning and properly shaping the crown, you can grow bonsai from, which will not be inferior to miniature Japanese trees. To obtain bonsai, a series of pruning, pinching is carried out, and a frame and ligature are also used.

Rejuvenating and sanitary. In the first case, it is carried out in order to stop the aging of the tree. By cutting off old shoots, you force the plant to grow new, young ones. In the second case, we remove damaged, dry and diseased branches so that the tree does not suffer from diseases and, as well as to clear the crown and improve the lighting of the lower shoots. It turns out that each pruning pitchfork is needed in a certain situation, and it is possible to solve all problems in one pruning only in rare cases. At the same time, you need to cut it not only on time, but also correctly, otherwise you will “substitute” your culture and various diseases and pests will immediately hit it.

Beginner Tricks

Branch pruning

The process is to remove annual growths to enhance growth and stimulate the development of buds that are located before the cut. Also, the branches thicken after shortening, which has a positive effect on productivity (thicker branches better withstand the weight of the fruit and suffer less from gusts of wind). During pruning, we remove 1/5 or 1/4 (weak pruning), but not from the entire branch, but from the annual growth. That is, from the length by which the branch has grown in a year.

Depending on the strength of pruning, there are weak, medium (1/3 length) and strong (1/2). Now let's talk about when a significant part of the shoot is removed.

If a 2-3-year-old growth is removed, then this is considered light chasing, the removal of 3-4-year-old wood is rejuvenation, and if most of the skeletal shoots are cut off, it is considered strong rejuvenation.

Important! Strong rejuvenation is carried out very rarely, in case of severe damage to the shoots or to radically reduce the size of the crown.

Removing perennial branches

Removal of perennial shoots should be carried out not only in order to remove diseased or dry branches, but also to thin out the crown or form it.

Branches can be cut both round and partially by removing shoots on one side. It is also possible to remove the central conductor to restrict growth, however this is done after the plant has formed.

Annular removal helps thin out the canopy circumferentially, as well as reduce overall stress, allow light to lower branches, and improve nutrient delivery to the aerial parts.

Partial removal helps to compensate for development, when more shoots develop on one side than on the other. The resulting symmetry gives better stability, and during fruiting, such a tree will not “fall over” to one side.

Features of the formation of a pyramidal and weeping crown

Let's start with the fact that the formation of the crown should be dealt with immediately after planting the plant, and not when it has already formed and you can only adjust the crown. Let's start with the pyramidal crown.

Such a crown has several tiers, each of which develops up to 5 skeletal branches that extend from the trunk at almost a right angle. The first shaping pruning is carried out immediately after planting.

We need to cut the central stem to a bud that will be opposite to the slope of the tree. Next, cut off the shoots, forming tiers. Strong shoots cut low, weak shoots cut high. The remaining skeletal branches must be shortened by 2 times.

Important! Spacing between tiers-50 cm

After the second tier, the rest are laid, so that each subsequent tier has shorter skeletal branches than the previous one. After all the manipulations, a crown is obtained in the form of a pyramid, which is perfectly illuminated by the sun's rays and is able to give a good harvest.

If you want to get a non-tiered pyramidal crown, then do not lay skeletal branches and do not cut thin branches that are overgrown.

Weeping crown. It is formed both with the help of the correct trimming, and with the use of various tensions. First we need to cut the trunk to the lower skeletal branches.

If you need to form a large weeping crown, then leave a few skeletal branches and, after the initial pruning, leave one branch near the cut of the skeletal shoot, which will grow upwards. It also needs to be cut periodically to achieve compaction and exit into a new skeletal branch.

You can also use stretch, but you can miscalculate the force and break the shoots. Moreover, stretching is applied to a 3-4-year-old tree, otherwise the branches will definitely “fold” in half.

Did you know? With the help of vaccinations, you can form a stunning weeping crown or a multi-tiered “fountain”, into which even a small stump can be turned.

Anti-aging fruit pruning, how to replace the crown of an old tree

Now let's discuss pruning fruit trees for beginners with the correct replacement of the old crown to increase yields or obtain a beautiful aesthetic appearance.

In one go

Pruning is carried out in order to remove diseased damaged wood at the first forks. Depending on the height, the cut is carried out 60-150 cm from the ground so that there are any shoots or buds on the left aerial part. Otherwise, it will be very difficult for the tree to re-grow all the green mass.

The cut must be even. There should be no cracks, fungus or any holes on the wood below the cut. You should get something similar: a tall stump, from which growth comes. Further, as the shoots grow, they can be formed into a pyramidal crown using stretches.
As a result, you will cut old wood in one go and, if everything goes as it should, you will get a young tree with good fruiting in a few years. The point is not only in the aerial part, but in a good root system, which occupies not a small area and will give impetus to growth.

Removal in 2 steps

Many horticultural crops grow to such a height in a few decades that the crop cannot be harvested, and the lower shoots die off due to the thickening of the crown, which is also very difficult to thin out. Therefore, many gardeners decide to replace the crown in 2 stages, which we will talk about.

Planting a garden is only the first step to harvest. In order for it to bear fruit well and not get sick, pruning of fruit trees is needed. Do it in spring and autumn. Let's talk about spring.

ABOUT when cutting a plant, you injure it. Therefore, it is very important to choose the type and quality of the tool that you use. It depends on them whether the tree will quickly recover.

You will need:

garden knife;
hacksaw.

Branches are recommended to be cut with a knife. Secateurs are easier, but they cause more damage: they strongly compress the wood, and then the wound heals longer. In order for the garden to recover faster, the cut must be even. This can only be achieved with a garden knife.

Amateur gardeners often have a question: when to prune fruit trees in spring, is it possible after the start of sap flow? It all depends on the state of your garden. The trunk split, branches broke under the weight of snow? Of course, pruning is inevitable. When there is nothing of the kind, then it is not worth injuring the trees. After all, pruning is not an end in itself. If you form trees according to the rules, you will only need a minimal corrective operation, which you can do without.

Pruning fruit trees is an important factor for a healthy and fruitful garden. And you need to do it skillfully. First of all, you should remove the shoots:

which depart from the trunk at an acute angle;
directed to the center of the crown;
which do not bear fruit (top).

There are several rules that professional gardeners always adhere to:

Pruning should begin immediately, as soon as the big frosts subsided (most often this is the end of January, the beginning of March). Thus, the wounds will not freeze, and when the sap flow begins, they will heal quickly. The cuts should be even and smooth. They must be lubricated with garden pitch.
You need to cut the shoots above the eyes that grow outward from the crown. Carry out the cut from the inside out.
The branches that are a continuation of the trunk should be longer than the rest.
On weak trees, short pruning is done. Cut off over the second or third eyes.
With strong growth, medium pruning is done. The branches are cut above the fifth eye.
For vigorous trees, a long pruning is carried out, leaving eight or more eyes.

crown formation

Forming the crown of a young tree can begin in the second year of its life and continue for several years. Fruits on apple trees, pears appear on perennial shoots, and plums, cherries bear fruit the next year after planting. Knowing this, spring pruning of fruit trees can be done without much damage to the future crop. Untiered and sparse-tiered crown formation systems are widespread. The latter is ideal for cherries, plums, cherry plums. The basis of such a crown is the trunk and up to a dozen side branches that grow from the trunk in tiers at a distance of up to twenty centimeters from each other.

And so, how to properly prune fruit trees in spring and form a crown? Proceed as follows:

The conductor is the central shoot, cut off at about 80 cm from the base. The main thing: up to a dozen buds should remain on the conductor. From them will go new shoots, side branches. This is the first tier.
Next year, remove the branches damaged during the winter, select three or four strong ones. Delete the rest. This is the second tier.
Therefore, according to the principle, form the third tier already in the fourth year.
The tree has reached four meters in height (short fruit trees - maximum), remove the conductor above the upper branch. Thus, stop the growth, completely form the crown of the tree.

Trees should be pruned regularly: once a year or in spring and autumn. At any time, as needed, sanitary or corrective pruning is performed.

Pruning fruit trees in the spring, the timing of its implementation is the end of winter or early spring. This is especially important for apricot, cherry, peach, cherry plum. In summer, pruning is done only to remove tops, branches that contribute to unnecessary crown density.

Description: a - shortening of shoots in the first year; b, c - shaping pruning of crown shoots along a given contour; g - sanitary pruning (removal of dry branches); e - pruning and thinning in order to improve aeration (before and after); e - rejuvenation of old trees.

Pruning mature fruit trees

Your garden is already fruitful. But he, like young trees, requires care and removal of dried or diseased branches. How to prune fruit trees in spring?

The thickened crown of a fruit tree needs to be thinned out. After five years, the conductor is removed. This will limit upward growth. Delete a branch in whole or in part. Partial removal will contribute to the growth of the branch that is located nearby. It is also necessary to cut off diseased, dried branches - the illumination of the crown improves, the fruits are distributed evenly.

Pruning is best done when the tree is at rest, until sap flow has begun.

If the crown is pyramidal (pear - branches grow upwards), the growing branches must be lowered down: those that are directed downwards are left, and those that are upwards are cut off. In other fruit trees, the branches are directed downwards - they need to be lifted: remove those directed downwards.

To rejuvenate the tree, you will need to cut the upper part of the trunk and thin out the crown. To do this, remove the old, going inside the crown, branches that are intertwined. A very dense crown, so as not to greatly injure the plant, should not be thinned out overnight, stretch the operation for two to three years.

Pear, cherry, apple pruning schemes

Pruning fruit trees in spring scheme for pears:

In winter, branches freeze and tops appear. They are completely removed or cut.
Pruning too much will weaken the tree and fruit will appear much later than expected. It is better to do a moderate pruning.
It is useful to shorten annual branches slightly. It will only make them stronger.

For cherries, cherries:

In young trees, five to seven strong branches are left, “looking” in different directions. The distance between them is up to 10 centimeters.
All weak branches are removed.
The conductor should be longer than the rest by 20 centimeters.
Cherries and sweet cherries are pruned only in spring.

For apple trees:

Before you start pruning, you need to clean the trunk, the main branches of the shoots.
Rejuvenate an old plant, increase productivity by removing a third of branches and shoots - the main thing is not to overdo it.
It needs to be pruned over several years.

When working in your garden, consider the experience of other gardeners and do not forget:

When removing branches, do not leave stumps, cut off at the very trunk.
A correctly made cut leaves a trace of a neatly overgrown "ring".
When removing thick branches, first make an inscription from below, and then from above. Thus, the bark will remain intact if the branch falls.
The shoot was removed incorrectly, there is damage - clean it, treat the cut with a var.
With pruning of frozen trees, it is better to wait until next spring.
Filling hollows, drilling drainage holes is impossible.
If there is a danger of branches breaking under the weight of the fruit, do not put props. It is better to cut off part of the fruit. Otherwise, the plant will get used to it and will not be able to hold the branches on its own.

You will learn how to properly cut the plant and not damage it by watching the video at the end of the article.

When pruning, the pruner should be held with the narrow part towards the branch.
If you want to form a lush crown of a young tree, shorten the conductor by ¼.
There should be only one conductor. There are competitors - liquidate.

A year after planting the plant, shorten its trunk by 20 centimeters, and the branches up to 7 centimeters. Please note: the branches at the bottom should be longer.

Spring pruning of fruit trees video

Any novice gardener comes to master the principles and rules of pruning fruit trees. Without the procedure, the plant begins to grow with additional shoots and produce fewer fruits, moreover, pests actively multiply on it.

Objectives of the procedure

Even stone fruit trees need to be pruned after some time, despite the fact that they are very young. Post-planting pruning of seedlings leads to early yields, but the "skeleton" necessary for further development is not formed.

Pruning of fruit trees must be carried out according to the rules, otherwise you can only do harm. A large number of fruits on a thin trunk causes exhaustion, the plant begins to wither and may eventually dry out.

Thinning significantly increases the life of the fruit tree. A smaller amount of foliage will allow for effective preventive measures against insects.

A tree that is properly pruned develops better wood throughout the trunk. In addition, plants that have a lot of branches bring a low yield, and the fruits are small. With dense foliage, the flowers do not receive enough light, therefore they often fall off, and the fruits at the ripening stage turn out to be sour, without the aroma characteristic of the tree.

If the plant is not cut, it will begin to stretch upward faster, caring for it becomes more complicated, it is not possible to spray the entire crown. Humidity, which is stored inside a dense crown, is the main cause of the appearance of fungal diseases. After the rain has passed, the moisture necessary for the development of small spores remains on the leaves. In this case, pruning can be perceived as an additional preventive measure when caring for an orchard.

In agricultural technology, pruning has been and remains one of the most important techniques to form a good, fruitful garden. Removing unnecessary branches leads to durability and resistance to cold.

Trees can be pruned in two ways:

thin out;
shorten.

When thinning, the branches are removed completely, and when shortened, only from the first kidney upwards.

When the gardener removes what he thinks are unnecessary branches, the plant begins to make up for what was lost, and its growth intensifies, numerous growths appear, the main task is to form the crown correctly at this time, leaving only those branches that are able to create a strong skeleton.

It is the skeletal branches that must be shortened so that growths appear on them, on which fruits will sing in the future. Additional processes should be cut more strongly so that they do not interfere with the main ones. The formation of a tree is carried out within five years, and for some late varieties of apple trees - up to ten years.

During the fruiting period, the number of branches increases, extra shoots thickening the crown appear, so the fruits are located inside behind the foliage, they do not receive enough light there, therefore they ripen unsweetened. That is why it is necessary to shorten annual shoots, sometimes they need to be removed entirely, observing the order of sap flow.

The branches are also cut off at the fruiting stage, when a lot of overgrowing branches form on the crown, as a result, inside the whole tree, the old shoots begin to wither, dry out and break. The gardener is required to systematically thin out the crown, remove small and unnecessary branches. When the fruiting period ends, the tree is rejuvenated, in the future the crop will only grow if productive shoots are left.

Timing

Fruit trees need to be pruned in spring, autumn and summer, they are dormant in winter. At the same time, the time for shortening the branches depends on the region where the tree grows. The autumn procedure is not recommended in the northern and central regions of our country, because frosts come early there, and the tree does not have time to close its wounds, sap flow stops, and the plant may simply die.

For these regions, it is recommended to prune in early spring, when the air temperature is already positive. They begin to tidy up the garden with old trees, because buds bloom faster on them. All unnecessary branches should be cut before buds open.

In the south of the country, some gardeners remove extra shoots in winter, as there are no severe frosts. During this period, the procedure helps to rejuvenate the plant, to give young seedlings the correct shape. It is necessary so that the young tree does not begin to bear fruit too early, which negatively affects its development as a whole. If a tree has been fruitful for several years in a row, then it needs to be allowed to rest.

If we talk about the ideal size of a tree, then it should not exceed three meters in height. The width of the crown in diameter should also be 3 meters. Pruning extra branches in the summer improves the quality of the fruit, the wounds on the tree heal quickly, since the juice is actively produced, which completely covers the cut.

Experienced gardeners prefer the procedure carried out in early spring, because during the summer and autumn the plant has time to recover.

In summer, not all trees can be cut, preferably only those that are three years old. In spring and autumn, crown formation is allowed on annual shoots. After ten years, the tree is considered old, it can no longer bear fruit, as before, so it is rejuvenated by removing most of the old shoots. There should not be more than three cuts on one branch.

It is better to start shaping cherries, apricots and plums when there are already foliage on the branches, since early pruning leads to fungus damage to the saw cuts.

Types and methods of trimming

An inexperienced gardener does not know that there are different pruning of fruit trees. Despite the fact that the process always boils down to one action - the removal of unnecessary branches, the purpose of such work may vary. She happens:

formative;
regulatory;
rejuvenating;
restorative;
sanitary.

When the main goal of the gardener is to make the correct shape of the crown, this procedure is called shaping. It is best to start work in February and early March, when active sap flow begins. If you are late, then the tree will develop more slowly, there will be practically no harvest.

The gardener is required to correctly place the skeletal guides, which in the future will be a frame that can hold the total weight of the fruit.

A young, actively growing tree needs to be adjusted minimally in order to only provide the fruits with the necessary amount of light. This procedure is called regulatory pruning, it is carried out from February to April or at the end of summer.

Old trees are rejuvenated, the gardener, by removing old branches, stimulates the growth of new, more viable ones. On any tree, you will need to remove old and dried shoots. Such a restorative procedure can be carried out at any time of the year, but it is better in the spring.

If the gardener pursues as his main goal the improvement of the orchard, then sanitization will be required, which is carried out at any convenient time, but not in winter.

Shoots that are damaged by insects or disease are removed, they are removed at the root, and it is necessary to process the tools after that.

Required Tools

To work in the garden, you will need a secateurs, through which you can quickly and easily remove small branches. Such garden shears have a ratchet mechanism, so that the cut is of high quality, you need to regularly sharpen the blades.

Construction saws are completely unsuitable for processing fruit trees; it is necessary to use a special hacksaw with shallow gaps between the teeth and high-quality sharpening.

It is necessary to remove processes that are at a distance of two meters, an elongated pruner, the design of which provides for an elongated handle. You can purchase a model with a telescopic handle that allows you to adjust the cutting height.

Massive trunks are removed only with a chainsaw. It is also necessary to have a stepladder, special clothing, including gloves, on hand.

It is better to wear goggles so that wood chips do not get into your eyes.

How to cut?

For beginners, there is a tree pruning scheme, as it can be difficult for them to decide where to start. The shoots at the top, which resemble crow's feet, are removed first. Crossing shoots next in line, be sure to cut off those that grow towards the ground. Young growth appears on the trunk over time, it is also removed.

Young and old trees form differently. If this is only a seedling, then before the start of the fruiting period, it is necessary to form a future frame. The crown should grow evenly in all directions, one-year-old branches are removed, which lead to a thickening of the crown. When everything is done correctly, after a few years an excellent fruit-bearing frame forms on the tree.

Pruning of young trees is done every year due to the intensity of growth. It is best to carry out the procedure in the fall.

In adult plants, crown formation is much easier. The main thing is to remove the branches that are already old, ovaries practically do not form on them, they only consume the vitality of the plant. The first time the crown is reduced several levels down, the shoots are removed only from the south side.

Later, the "tops" that formed after the previous procedure are removed. The rest of the crown rejuvenates gradually, the best time is late autumn and winter.

Aftercare

After pruning, it is necessary to continue to care for the trees. Treat them from insects, if possible, treat the saw cuts with lime or pitch, which you can cook yourself. This requirement is mandatory for shoots whose diameter was more than one centimeter. You can replace the pitch and lime with paint, which contains drying oil.

In the place where the branch was removed, new shoots will form, they are cut off with a pruner. Plants must be fertilized so that it receives the necessary amount of trace elements for further development. Potassium chloride, phosphorus are added under the root, simple ash can be used.

See the following video for a master class on pruning fruit trees.

The first and main pruning of a fruit tree should be done when planting a 1-2 year old specimen in a permanent place. At the seedling, cut off 30-50 percent of the crown with secateurs. Smear the cuts with garden pitch or oil paint and wrap with electrical tape.

This procedure will help the roots to get stronger, and, thus, the vitality of the tree will increase several times.

For the next 3 years, the so-called formative pruning should be carried out, the task of which is to form the crown of the future tree with thick skeletal branches located in proportion to each other and growing at an obtuse angle to the tree trunk.

Every year, during the formative pruning, gardeners advise cutting off about 1/3 of the length of all the most powerful shoots on the trunk and skeletal branches, there should be 3-4 of them on each branch, all the rest should be cut off without regret.

After that, pruning is done as needed, removing old, broken and disease-damaged branches, the crown should be periodically thinned out, cutting off all tops and young shoots.

The main pruning should be done during the dormant period of the fruit tree, when severe frosts stop, but before the onset of the growing season in the spring (in warmer areas - at the end of February). But inexperienced gardeners can remove healthy ones along with damaged branches, so it is quite possible to carry out the procedure in May, during bud break. Formative pruning can also be done in early summer. Anti-aging is recommended.

How to cut

Cut annual shoots with a pruner or garden knife directly above the bud. When pruning branches above the side branch, leave a small spine (1-2 cm in length).

Shortening of shoots and thin branches is done with a garden knife or pruner, and thick ones are removed with a garden saw.

When thinning branches, cut just above the influx at the base of the branch, and the cut should run parallel to it. The stump should not be left, because in this case the wound will heal for a long time.

When cutting thick branches with a saw, first file them from the bottom, and then finish sawing the branches from above. Shorten very thick branches first, then cut them into a ring next to the influx. After removing thick branches, clean the cuts with a garden knife so that the surface is smoother and cover with garden pitch or paint over with oil paint.