Installing bastu ventilation in the bath. How to make ventilation in the bath: a scheme and a device for a steam room Air flow into the steam room from the street

Among the most important indicators of the Russian bath, they traditionally name the temperature and the level of humidity, forgetting about another fundamental indicator - air exchange. This is very reckless, because even if you carefully insulate the room and achieve comfortable humidity, staying in a steam room with stale air will not only be uncomfortable, but also dangerous. If you want to avoid such a fate, take care of the ventilation in the steam room in advance. You can even equip such a system with your own hands - let's take a closer look at how to do it right.

Before proceeding to a description of the features of the direct technological process, let's first clarify why ventilation is necessary in the bath in the steam room. It is no secret that many skeptics consider its arrangement only an unjustified waste of time and money, but this is far from the case - the lack of a ventilation system can lead to at least three sharply negative consequences.

Types of ventilation systems for the steam room

Ventilation in the bath in the steam room can be of three types:

natural;
mechanical;
combined.

The natural system assumes that air circulation is provided by the difference in pressure and temperature levels in the steam room and on the street. The principle of operation here is simple: first, hot air rises into the upper zone of the steam room, and then leaves through the exhaust hole to the street, thereby discharging the atmosphere in the bath - this creates the conditions for drawing in new air through the supply hole. The advantage of such ventilation is minimal financial costs. But here one nuance must be taken into account: with insufficient insulation of the structure, the natural air duct will be an obstacle to high-quality heating of the bath.

Steam room ventilation scheme

Mechanical ventilation operates by means of special devices that control the exit of exhaust air and the supply of new air flows into the steam room. As a rule, various kinds of fans act as such devices. The advantage of the mechanical system is that ventilation equipment can be installed in almost any area of the room.

Advice. A classic duct fan is not suitable for a bath, as it will not withstand the harsh conditions of a steam room - it is better to use special models made of glass-filled polyamide that can withstand high temperatures - up to 130 degrees.

Combined ventilation combines elements of both natural and mechanical systems. It functions in this way: mechanical devices are responsible for extracting the exhaust air, and fresh air enters through a separate supply opening.

Ventilation schemes

There are at least five working ventilation schemes that can be used in a steam room - choose a specific option based on the design features of your Russian bath.

The supply opening is behind the stove at a distance of 50 cm from the heater, and the exhaust opening is opposite, at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The air is removed forcibly - this is provided by a fan built into the lower opening.
The supply opening is behind the heater at a distance of 30 cm from the floor base, the exhaust opening is at a distance of 20 cm from the floor on the opposite wall. The air is forced out - with the help of a fan. The main feature of the scheme is a very high rate of heating of fresh air.

Bath ventilation systems

Both openings - both flow and exhaust - are placed on one side directly opposite the stove, but at different levels: the first is at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the floor, the second is 20 cm from the ceiling. The system operates using a fan, which is mounted in the exhaust opening.

Advice. Such a scheme is suitable for baths with an internal placement of a steam room - when the room has only one external side.

The supply hole is behind the stove at a height of 20 cm from the base of the floor. There is no exhaust opening - instead, a special leaking floor is provided: the exhaust air masses pass through its slots to the ventilation pipe. Such a system guarantees the performance of an additional function - prompt drying of the floor.
The supply opening is opposite the stove at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The role of the exhaust hole is assigned to the blower. Such a scheme is suitable only for those baths where the heater operates continuously.

General rules for organizing ventilation in the steam room

Whichever version of the ventilation system you choose, you need to equip it according to certain rules.

Firstly, it is desirable to make all holes for ventilation even at the stage of building a bath, since punching channels in an already finished structure is a very difficult process. The ideal option is to decide on a suitable scheme during the design of a Russian bath in order to make all the necessary changes to the work plan in a timely manner.

Secondly, the dimensions of the exhaust opening should be approximately the same as the dimensions of the supply opening. In any case, the "output" should not be less than the "input", otherwise it will not be possible to ensure a full outflow of exhaust air from the steam room. And in order to speed up this process, it is allowed to increase the dimensions of the exhaust opening and even equip two “exits” in one room.

Make a valve to block the air flow in the cold season

Thirdly, in order to regulate the airflow of the steam room, all ventilation openings must be equipped with special shutters or shutters. They will come in handy in several situations: when heating the steam room, when the vents will need to be covered to quickly raise the temperature to the required level, as well as in the frosty season, when cold air will actively rush into a warm room.

Fourthly, the cross section of the ventilation hole should be related to the area of the steam room in the proportion: 1 cu. m area - 24 cm section. If the holes are small, the air in the room will not be able to quickly update.

Of course, organizing ventilation in the bath with your own hands is not an easy task. But it is fundamentally necessary: without air exchange, you can forget about the comfort, safety and durability of the steam room. Now you know the main rules and subtleties of this work - if you stick to them, you will definitely be able to make a high-quality ventilation system even without professional help.

Ventilation in the bath: video

Often to ensure ventilation can be limited to aeration. It is necessary to make holes with dampers, it is advisable to choose the recommended places so that the air circulation is soft and constantly maintained. If necessary, you can use forced air exchange systems.

Above the stove

Opening for outside air equipped above the heater. An outlet is made in the opposite wall, it should be lower than the entrance. The warm stream will rise as a jet of cold air and exit through the hole. Due to the constant exit of warm air, cold air cannot enter through the outlet.

Behind the stove

The air inlet can be positioned at the bottom of the wall behind the stove. The stove will heat the incoming, cold air, so there will be no drafts or sudden temperature changes. Output channels can be built in the floor. They can pass through the underground, passing into the ventilation pipe that leads the air to the street. The air outflow created according to this scheme saves heat, helps to reduce heating costs, and gives comfort to those in the bath. The main advantage is the additional heating of the subfloor. It dries well, so mold and various fungi do not grow in it.

Under the stove

The hole is being made next to the stove as low as possible. When cold air passes by the stove, it heats up, so it rises. Exit holes are made in the corner opposite the furnace. To create the first, you need to measure 1 meter from the floor, and the second is built under the ceiling. They are connected by a ventilation box, which can be brought to the roof, for example, through the attic.

Hood under the floor

The hole for the forced draft must be equipped from the back of the oven. From the level of the heater, it should rise by 1.5 m. The hood is installed under the floor, at a distance of about 30 cm. A fan is mounted in the exhaust hole. All incoming air will be heated absolutely evenly. First, the air masses are heated from the furnace, rise up. After cooling, they rush down, go out into the street. To keep warm for a longer time, you need to make the exhaust hole as low as possible.

Other popular options

If there is no other possibility, you can make an air inlet anywhere on the wall near the stove, and the outlet is also in a free location, but in the opposite wall. To speed up air circulation, you can install a fan for the outlet.
The location of the inlet and outlet openings on the same wall opposite from the furnace. The air will enter through the one built at a height of 30 cm from the floor, and exit through the one installed 30 cm from the ceiling. This scheme is great for baths with only one external wall.
The inlet is placed at a distance of 30 cm from the floor behind the stove, and the outlet is also at a height of 30 cm, but on the opposite side.
Option for baths with a continuous cycle. The blower of the heater is used as an exhaust hood, so there is a need to equip only one hole for air inflow. It must be placed opposite the brazier at the height of its level.

One of the main elements of ventilation for the bath is a chimney. Warm air escapes better through a chimney than through ventilation holes. To freshen the air as quickly as possible, you need to open the chimney along with the equipped holes.

The temperature in the bath should not be allowed to drop lower than the street temperature. In this case, there is a risk of smoke in the room in which the stove is located, usually a steam room. Cooled air forms a plug, it can be released by opening all dampers on the ventilation openings, connecting the chimney. Sometimes you have to use a special opening for ash disposal.

Video on how to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself steam bath ventilation

In the steam room, it is desirable to install a stove-heater. It provides the main ventilation system. Air from the steam room passes through the blower, so its circulation is already well ensured. A blower is used instead of a special exhaust device. For maximum air outflow the oven must be installed at a level lower than the finished floor. To start ventilation, you only have to slightly open the front door or window. The disadvantage of this method of ventilation is that it is maintained only during the combustion of the furnace. If the device is inoperative, the hood stops completely.

In addition to the stove-heater, ventilation in the bath is maintained with extra holes(see photo below). They need to be closed with bars. To regulate the air exchange in the steam room, it is enough just to open or close the shutters. After each park, airing the room is necessary, so you should open the holes for a while. If this is not done, the air will remain humid, heavy, and there is also a risk of carbon monoxide poisoning due to its high content.

When the steam room only heats up, the stove is heated, you need to make sure that the holes are tightly closed. When the room is warm enough, they can be opened. In order to avoid the formation of reverse draft, it is necessary to provide at the construction stage that the area of exhaust openings exceeds the supply ones. Steam accumulates at the very top, to lower it, you can spray water on the floor in small quantities. To quickly lower the steam, you can also wave the broom or towel in different directions.

If the stove is not installed directly in the steam room, then a different ventilation method is used. A supply hole is made near the heater at a height of 30 cm from the floor. On the wall opposite from it, an exhaust is made, placing it 30 cm down from the ceiling.

Sometimes the inlet is placed behind the stove at the bottom of the wall. The air coming from the street is warmed by the stove, so the room cools moderately. On the opposite wall to the stove, you need to form 2 openings. They will make up one exhaust duct. The first opening is made at a distance of 1 m from the floor, and the second under the ceiling. The air is expelled through the hood to the roof.

With the device of such ventilation, the steam room is quickly warmed up, while fuel is saved. The smell of mustiness in the room is prevented, as the subfloor dries well.

natural ventilation

To get fresh air into the bath, you need to make a small opening in the wall, located at a distance of about 50 cm from the stove. A retractable damper is equipped for it, which allows you to adjust the amount of incoming air. Too high an arrangement is not reasonable, since the hottest air rises to the ceiling. To use the heat from the stove to the maximum, you need to make a hole in the middle of the wall. If the hole is too low, the thrust will be minimal. In order for it to be carried out correctly, it is necessary to install a ventilation pipe or purchase a fan.

Forced ventilation

To get as much fresh air into the steam room as possible, openings should be placed diametrically to each other. If forced air outflow is used, it is desirable to make the supply hole higher than the exhaust one. If it is possible to build a ventilation system in which the air flow enters from below, heats up from the stove, rises, and then goes outside, then additional fans will not be required.

When using fans Do not place both the supply and exhaust openings at the same level. The air supply may close, which will lead to the concentration of cooled air masses from below, while at the top it will be too hot.

It is undesirable to have an exhaust opening in the ceiling. When the incoming air goes up, you will have to spend a lot of time on sufficient heating of the room. Warm air quickly rises, mixing little with cold air, and quickly leaves the bath. You can take the air up in the dressing room, if the goal is to heat it from the steam room.

Cross section of openings for ventilation should be related to the total area of \u200b\u200bthe bath or steam room separately. Do not make holes too small. If the ventilation is insufficient, it will take a long time to update the air, it may become too humid, and mustyness will appear.

Scheme of ventilation in the steam room of the Russian bath.

Washroom ventilation

As in the steam room, a large accumulation of moisture is also noted in the washing bath. To avoid constantly damp air, leading to the appearance of fungi and mold, it is necessary to ensure its timely removal to the outside. A lot of water often accumulates under the floor, so an asbestos pipe is often sufficient for good ventilation. It can be placed in a corner. One end of the pipe is placed under the finishing floor, and the other is brought to the roof, it must be equipped with a deflector.

The construction of moderate, adjustable ventilation allows you to keep the bathhouse dry, maintain a moderate temperature, get rid of humidity, and constantly inhale renewed, fresh air. Ventilation regulates the direction and location of the air inlet and outlet, the removal of carbon monoxide, and provides savings on fuel for the stove.

The temperature regime of operation of bath rooms is very different from the microclimate of ordinary living rooms. Accordingly, more stringent requirements are put forward for air exchange inside the steam room. This guide discusses the traditional technique of how to properly ventilate a bathhouse built with your own hands from any materials - timber, logs or foam blocks.

Why do bathrooms need ventilation?

In the process of washing the air inside the sauna is heated and saturated with moisture. The higher the temperature in the steam room and washing room, the more water vapor the air can absorb. At the end of the bath procedures, the building cools down and the contained moisture begins to condensate on all wooden surfaces, provoking the formation of mold and fungus.

The supply and exhaust in the bath are designed to solve 3 tasks:

Renewal of the air environment during washing in accordance with the requirements of sanitary standards.
Removing excess moisture from the premises, drying wood.
Creating a circulation of moist air in the steam room.

The last point requires clarification. When you steam in a heated Russian banya and add a parka, hot humidified air rises to the ceiling. A properly installed hood removes cooling air masses, due to which circular flows arise that equalize the temperature throughout the entire height of the room. Without ventilation, the lower zone of the steam room will remain cold.

Reference. The physical processes occurring in the Russian and Finnish baths are almost the same. The difference lies in the temperature and degree of air humidity. In the first case, the temperature reaches 70-80 degrees, humidity - up to 70%, in the second - 100 ° C and 30%, respectively (the so-called dry steam).

In the washing room, rest room and dressing room, ordinary ventilation is needed to renew the air environment. For gas operation, an additional inflow is provided to ensure combustion.

Universal air exchange scheme

The classic version is considered the most economical and efficient - natural ventilation in the steam room, shown in the diagram. The main washing system operates as follows:

The inflow is organized through a gap of 2-3 cm under the front door, where heated air from the adjacent room penetrates.
Receiving a dose of heat from the stove and saturated with steam, the hot air mass rises to the ceiling.
Cooling from contact with surfaces and people, the air descends to the lower zone, from where it is removed by means of an exhaust grille and a separate channel arranged in the opposite corner.
The volume of inflow is regulated by a valve installed on the exhaust port.

An important nuance. Hot moist air is much lighter than cold dry air, so the hood is provided from the bottom of the steam room. If you make a ventilation hole near the ceiling, the lion's share of the heat will go outside, it will be uncomfortable in the microclimate near the shelves.

How the bath ventilation system should work, the expert will tell in his video:

An auxiliary hood, made near the ceiling, is designed to ventilate and dry the steam room at the end of bath procedures. During washing, the hole is tightly closed with a valve. Instead of an exhaust opening, it is allowed to use ceiling diffusers or a regular swing-out window.

Consider several alternative steam room ventilation schemes shown below in the picture:

Supply of inflow directly from the street through a hole made near the stove. From contact with a hot surface, the air instantly warms up, circulates through the steam room and leaves through a vertical box to the outside.
A similar scheme with heating the inflow at the furnace, the exhaust is organized through a hidden channel under a wooden deck. In a steam room with a concrete floor, such a solution is difficult to implement.
The role of the exhaust channel is played by a stove chimney, in which a priori there is good draft.

Note. These schemes are used in certain conditions - when air is supplied from the street, exhausted through the floors, or if the firebox is placed inside the steam room.

In other rooms, the ventilation device is simpler - the hood is provided in the upper zone, the inflow is supplied to the lower one. Moreover, in winter, fresh air must be heated or first passed through a dressing room so that it does not blow cold in the steam room. To clean and heat the street flow, it is advisable to use local supply units with forced air injection.

Option to return air to the shower room through a vertical channel and overflow grille

Choosing the Right Materials

The very idea of a Russian or Finnish bath involves the use of environmentally friendly materials and appropriate heating equipment. If you are, the use of polymer insulation, glass wool and various plastic elements is not allowed.

To arrange ventilation in the bath (especially in the steam room) with your own hands, it is recommended to purchase the following materials:

air ducts made of galvanized steel or wooden boxes;
grilles, shutters and diffusers - made of wood or painted metal;
sealing pipes with access to the wall - tow, moss, jute;
fans - made of special plastic, with a high degree of electrical protection against moisture.

Advice. Try to use a minimum of metal elements in the steam room. If you raise the temperature to 80-100 ° C, the parts will get very hot and can burn you if accidentally touched.

Inside the steam room, it is categorically not recommended to make ventilation from a plastic pipe. When heated to 100 degrees, the polymer begins to lose stability and release harmful substances. In a good way, you can’t put fans in the steam room either, and there’s no need to.

Forced exhaust creates a powerful air flow, entraining a large amount of heat, the oven will run idle. For drying the bath, the fan is also not a panacea - just open the window and the front door, organizing a draft. Injection is appropriate in one case - when a heated supply unit is operating.

Ideally, ventilation is designed and laid down at the construction stage of the bath. The placement of air ducts is thought out in advance, the furnace model and the air exchange scheme are selected. The best option for the main hood is through the floors into the side vertical channel, more economical - a grate or diffuser in the wall.

An important point. Often there is a mistake when the owner competently equips the hood, forgets about the inflow and gets a deplorable result - mold in the corners. Remember: without replacement with supply air, exhaust ventilation will not work. Installing a suction fan will not solve the problem either.

When installing ventilation, we suggest following simple recommendations:

If a bath with a steam room has already been built, the ventilation duct can be brought out through the wall and raised to a height of 3-4 m next to the chimney. It is desirable to insulate the pipe, otherwise you will have to deal with condensation. How best to organize the ventilation of bath rooms, look at the video:

Conclusion

The classic version of natural ventilation, invented by the ancient builders of baths, has not lost its relevance to this day. The device of modern forced air exchange has the right to life, but will require financial investments. Such a solution is justified for a “smart home” sauna, but in most cases it is impractical.

There is already a large review material on our website, so now it’s worth talking separately about the hood in the bath: how it works, how it works and how to make it yourself.

Hood in the bath: depending on which bath

Baths are built from a variety of materials, each of which has its own specifics. This also affects the ventilation systems, which have their own characteristics in each case. We will talk about their differences in terms of organization below.

Extractor in the sauna

A sauna or a Finnish bath differs from a Russian one in a small amount of steam (this is practically a dry bath) and a high temperature (which can reach up to 130 degrees!). During your stay in the sauna, there is a clear rule regarding ventilation: the air must be changed at least 6-8 times per hour. And this requires good controllability of air flows, replacing exhaust air with fresh air less than every 10 minutes.

Ideal option for a sauna, (convection type). Let us briefly repeat that it operates on the principle of an “inverted glass”:

ventilation box, standing diagonally from the oven, takes in ambient air;
brings it out through the roof (wall);
below, next to the stove, there is an inlet through which fresh air enters;
the oven heats the oxygenated air, it rises and is distributed throughout the sauna.

Flow regulation is carried out with the help of dampers that regulate the openness of the box and the inlet. An important point in this case is the constant operation of the furnace, because it is it that performs the function of a “pump”.

And even if the hood in the sauna is done according to a different scheme, the task will remain the same:

controlled frequent air exchange;
good warming up incoming fresh air;
impermissibility fast air currents (more than 0.3 m / s), i.e. drafts.

In a log cabin

The log house was invented long before the laws of physics on which natural ventilation is based took shape. Nevertheless, the builders of log baths actively used these laws so that the owners of the bath would not suffocate in the process of soaring, and the bath would stand for decades due to it. (Of course, the hood in the log cabin will not save her from a fire, but from rot - it may well.) In the log house, the air flow was provided by the lower rims, which were intentionally laid freely, that is, they had slots through which fresh air was “stretched”. In addition, the door to the steam room below did not fit snugly against the floor.

Depending on how exactly the bath from the log house was heated - “in black” or “in white” - it also depended on where the exhaust air went.

In a heated "black" bathhouse, the stove does not work during the soaring process, so an open window or door was used for outflow.
In the melted "white" bath, the outflow was carried out through the chimney. The oven was working.

In principle, nothing prevents organizing the ventilation of the log house in the traditional way today. But it is necessary to decide quickly, even at the construction stage. Because a more modern solution should already be included in the project. Alternatively, you can punch holes (supply and exhaust) directly onto the street and supply them with plugs or dampers. One is next to the stove blower, the second is above the upper shelf on the adjacent or opposite side. Or make two exhaust holes - one above, the other below the top shelf. Another option is to make blinds at the bottom of the steam room door, and an exhaust hole under the ceiling of the shower room.

IMPORTANT! If there is no desire to make an exit to the street, you can lay air ducts, but then you will have to install a forced ventilation system instead of a natural one.

In a foam block bath

A foam block bath is no exception to the rule that you need to think about ventilation when designing a bath. It's easier than hitting ready-made walls. In order to provide a bath of cellular concrete with sufficient air circulation, which will save the structure from excess moisture, it is necessary to lay pipe trimmings at the time of pouring the foundation formwork, which will then become air ducts.

For a bath that is not in a lowland and is not surrounded on all sides by buildings, two air vents are enough on opposite sides, otherwise they are made 4. Do not forget about the ventilation gaps between the walls and the insulation.

The roof must also be ventilated, receiving inflow from the roof overhangs and giving air through the raised ridge. In the premises, supply and exhaust openings are made according to one of the standard schemes.

In case of insufficient natural ventilation, it is recommended to install fans on the hood from the foam block bath.

Extract for a bath: in which department?

If we leave aside the issues of ventilation of walls, foundations and roofs already discussed in other articles, there are rooms - a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room and a rest room - where you need to organize air circulation. At the same time, there are certain standards regarding ventilation in each of them and the specifics of the manufacture of the hood. But first things first.

Extractor in the steam room

For those who soar, the extract in the steam room of the bath is a guarantee that they will come out of there alive and healthy.

IMPORTANT! You can not leave the steam room without ventilation holes at all, this is a big risk of getting black or losing consciousness and suffocating with carbon dioxide. Can't just make one hole- so the ventilation does not work.

The method of ventilation of the steam room can be natural (due to the laws of physics) or forced (due to fans). Openings can lead to the street, to air ducts and to neighboring rooms. On the ventilation openings, either blinds or dampers are placed. Air inflow can be organized through the bottom of the steam room door, spaced 3 cm from the floor or with blinds at the bottom of the door leaf.

With your own hands you will have to make only a box. Everything else (corrugation, valves, gate valves, dampers) is on sale. Fans (if needed) vary in diameter and power. Relays can be used to automatically control forced ventilation. Holes in the wall are either left during construction, or they make their way in an already built bath.

Useful video

See how the craftsmen made a box for extracting ventilation from the boards:

In the washing

According to the already mentioned standards, the air circulation in the washing room per hour should be a multiple of 8 room volumes for supply ventilation and 9 for exhaust. It means:

that the dimensions of the exhaust opening will be more inlet;
or exhaust will be two on one supply;
or put on the hood fan.

In any case, this is an intensive air exchange, which is intended primarily for quickly draining the car wash. During the washing process, it is not required, so it is regulated by dampers.

By the way, air inlets can be made in the dressing room or rest room, and exhaust holes in the washing room. This will allow you to ventilate two rooms at once. Similarly, the hood is done in the bathroom, and forced to create low pressure. Then the air will be drawn from the neighboring rooms and leave through the forced exhaust. Thus, the rooms are connected by through holes, which on the one hand will be supply, and on the other - exhaust.

The components of the hood in the washing bath do not differ from those used in the steam room.

How to make an extract in the bath

This has been said many times before, but it's worth repeating: the cost of arranging ventilation will increase many times if it is done late after completion of construction. At the same time, the principle of creating ventilation in the bath remains unchanged: it is necessary to create conditions for the inflow and outflow of air from the premises. So, how to make a hood in the bath with your own hands or the hands of professionals.

Hood in the bath: scheme

There are many schemes, but any one is suitable for understanding the principle of ventilation. Most often, ventilation schemes for the steam room are offered, but the scheme for the entire bath, with explanations, is of much greater interest.

Look at the sketch. It shows that ventilation is carried out in the washing room, steam room and rest room. Moreover, the air flow is carried out from one pipe to two points, one of which is located in the steam room, and the second - in the rest room. The hood is located in the washing room, and in the steam room, and in the rest room. Let's describe all the ventilation devices in each room:

washing- a window made of metal-plastic, an adjustable hood that takes air through a diffuser located on the ceiling. From there, the air escapes through a pipe to the roof.
steam room- an insulated window located below the shelf, an adjustable hood, which is a vertical box, the intake hole of which is 150 cm² located below the shelf, and the exit from the pipe to the street is near the ceiling. One of the channels of regulated inflow near the stove, cross-sectional area 150 cm².
Restroom- adjustable hood, which is a box with a cross section of 150 cm², the height of the intake hole is 30-40 cm from the floor, exit through the pipe to the street near the ceiling. Regulated inflow through the second channel with an exit near a furnace fire chamber.

DIY: how to do it right

Do-it-yourself exhaust in the bath is not something that cannot be done, but you need to approach the matter prudently and slowly. In order to independently make the hood, you need to prepare materials according to it. It is also necessary to calculate the cross section of the ventilation pipes.

IMPORTANT! The inflow volume must be equal to or less than the exhaust volume.

To do this, you need to know the volume of the room and the multiplicity factor (how many times the air should be updated per hour) - it is in the regulations. In the main air ducts, the speed of movement should not exceed 5 m / s, in the branches - 3 m / s, in the steam room - 2 m / s, natural ventilation - up to 1 m / s. Further in the table we find the value of the pipe section, which most closely gives the desired volume at a given speed.

Knowing the cross section, it remains to prepare a corrugation or pipes of the appropriate diameter, which at one end are mounted indoors at the desired height according to the diagram, and with the other they go outside. Self-tapping screws, metal tape and polyurethane foam are used for fastening. The openings are supplied with shutters in the room, gratings at the exit. By the way, ventilation should be cleaned once a year..

Useful video

Watch a short video showing ventilation in one bath:

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Well, now you know exactly how to properly draw a hood in the bath in order to save yourself, your household and guests from suffocation in the bath. It remains only to correctly apply the information received.

In contact with

Ventilation in a log bath: its arrangement should be approached very responsibly, so that later there will be less trouble and there will be no situations when someone becomes ill in the steam room due to the lack of sufficient oxygen.

Ventilation is mounted parallel to the construction of the building itself, and the choice of one or another of its types is made in accordance with the architectural features of the building.

Ventilation in the bath, made at a high quality level, provides comfortable conditions for lovers of steam, allows you to fully enjoy the bath process

On a note! Ventilation in the bath, made at a high quality level, provides comfortable conditions for lovers of steam, allows you to fully enjoy the bath process.

Why is there ventilation in the bath?

To answer the question, why, in fact, the bath ventilation, you should know its direct purpose.

If there is an air circulation system in the steam room, other bath rooms, they:

warm up faster, heat fills them more evenly (direct savings on heating);
receive oxygen in the process of soaring, vacationers feel comfortable, nothing threatens their health;
quickly get rid of excess steam, moisture, dry;
walls, floors, ceilings are not covered with fungi, mold, objects (benches, tubs) do not darken, the building as a whole does not deform, it will last longer.

If the room is not sufficiently or not ventilated at all, unpleasant putrefactive odors appear there, the inner surfaces are covered with a wet sticky coating. During the bath procedures, vacationers experience a lack of oxygen, breathing difficulties, and the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. Also, in the absence of proper air circulation, warm masses will quickly accumulate under the ceiling, and the area near the floor will be constantly cold.

However, you should also know the following: a bath of classical Russian construction, that is, from logs, with specially cut ventilation holes ... is not provided! They are recognized by professionals as superfluous, but only in one case: if the bath is neither insulated nor insulated from the outside, not insulated, not finished. In a bath without finishing, the lower wall crowns are already laid with holes through which air enters in a natural mode. If there is a stove-heater inside, then ventilation is carried out through a blower. And so fresh air is let into the Russian bath through a door or window open by five to seven centimeters. In parallel with this, the room should be cleaned of wet leaves in a timely manner, benches are dried on the street, and heavy air is driven out by waving sheets.

Specially built-in ventilation in a Russian log bath must be equipped in cases where:

there is additional insulation or any type of insulation;
floors do not have natural slots for draining water;

the stove is not in the steam room, but in the adjacent room;
windows are missing.

Important! Only in these cases, the presence of additional ventilation holes and forced circulation systems in a log bath is recognized as mandatory.

Ventilation device: important points

Let us clarify once again: we are talking about arranging ventilation in a classic-built log bath only if its natural implementation (through a stove blew, window, door, cracks in the floor) is impossible. Quite often, during the construction of baths, two extremes are observed: they refuse ventilation altogether or make it more powerful and unregulated. What will happen to vacationers in the steam room in the absence of ventilation, we said above. If the ventilation is too intense, the bath will take longer to heat up, the heat will quickly disappear from the room. The floors will cool faster, which threatens people with colds.

Fresh air should enter the steam room through an opening located directly behind the stove or under one of the loungers. In the first case, hitting a hot stove, the air warms up quickly, the difference between the ceiling and floor temperatures is neutralized. The ventilation hole located under the lounger has only one plus - it is not conspicuous. There are two minuses here - constantly cold floors in the area of \u200b\u200bthe benches, difficult operation of the damper, since it is difficult to reach it with your hand.

Bath ventilation cannot be only supply or only exhaust. It can be exclusively supply and exhaust, since it provides a constant supply of oxygen to the room and the removal of harmful, heavy, exhaust air to the street. Hence the answer to the question of whether ventilation is needed in a log bath can only be in the affirmative. And about what types it is, we will talk below.

There are three types of ventilation structures, and they differ in their design.

Systems are:

natural;
mechanical or forced;
combined.

Natural ventilation is provided during the construction of the building by cutting holes. Dampers (covers) are installed on them, which, if necessary, completely shut off the flow of air flows or decrease (increase) their volume. This system functions due to the difference in pressure and temperature of the external atmosphere and the internal one. In order for natural ventilation to work effectively, you need to properly position the vents themselves. The inlet (supply) hole is usually located behind the stove at a distance of 0.3 meters from the floor, the outlet (exhaust) is opposite on the wall at a distance of 0.3 meters from the ceiling.

For a steam room, this is not the best ventilation option, since in this case the outlet must be at the same level as the inlet. Thus, the air enters behind the stove, heats up, rises up, cools down, descends, and is discharged outside through the exhaust hole.

A mechanical or forced (artificial) ventilation system is provided by installing special fans on the openings, laying pipes, and installing electrical equipment. If we compare it with natural, a number of fairly significant advantages are found, namely:

Oxygen enters the room faster.
The incoming air is filtered.
The microclimate inside the room is constantly kept at the same level.
Fresh air is distributed evenly, quickly updated.

However, in order to maximize the effect of its use, you should strictly monitor the correct location of the supply / exhaust openings.

On a note! Natural ventilation in a log bath loses to forced ventilation in several positions.

For example, it is very dependent on the weather, especially if a strong wind is directed towards the intake hole at an angle of ninety degrees. The result of the work of the forced system is always of the same quality in any weather. And the direction and strength of the wind does not play any role for her.

However, when installing a mechanical system, there are some difficulties. It cannot be equipped without electrical equipment, which is quite sensitive to the humid microclimate in a steam room with high temperatures. Moreover, moisture and high degrees are the worst enemies of any equipment powered by electricity. Therefore, all elements of the system (fans, motors, etc.) should be reliably isolated from moisture, and when connecting it, strictly follow all operating rules. For sealing electrical engineering, all seams, special cases, sealants and metallized tape are most often used.