How to install a drainage system. Installation of gutters of the drainage system

One of the final stages of building a house or other structure is the installation of a drainage system.

A prefabricated structure made of plastic or metal elements protects the building from precipitation, prolongs the life of the foundation, walls, and roof. Knowing the design and rules for installing gutters will help you install the system yourself, and we will tell you how to do it.

The design of drainage structures has not changed much over the years - the main components are still gutters and risers in the form of vertically arranged pipes.

However, many elements have appeared that simplify the installation of parts to the surfaces of the roof, facade and among themselves.

The production of products is put on a grand scale, and today you can purchase ready-made elements for any, even the most complex systems, if only material possibilities allow.

After the necessary calculations, they acquire the required number of parts, then fold them according to the principle of the designer and mount them according to the instructions.

Schematic representation of the elements of the drainage system. In addition to these elements, the mounting kit may contain clamps, couplings, seals, connecting elements of various configurations.

For a dacha - a small house with a gable roof - you can build a structure yourself using galvanized steel sheets.

But for a large cottage with a beautifully designed facade and roof, it is better to purchase a ready-made factory kit, which will be an additional decoration for the building.

Types of gutters according to the material of manufacture

Before buying and installing gutters, you need to decide on the material of manufacture, since the installation method also depends on this. All systems can be divided into two large groups: plastic and metal.

Polymer Element Sets

Polymer products are produced on the basis of vinyl with the addition of plasticizers, stabilizers and other components that increase the strength and wear resistance of the elements. Plastic systems last from 10 to 25 years.

Step-by-step instructions for installing gutters

Preparation and installation work can be divided into three large stages:

• design- drawing up a diagram, selection of components, calculations;
• assembly of the water intake part of the system– mostly horizontal elements;
• riser installation guiding rainfall in .

Assembly and installation are carried out from top to bottom, that is, the first elements are installed on the roof and under the roof, then on the facade towards the foundation and blind area. All actions must be performed taking into account the characteristics of the system and the material from which the individual elements are made.

As a sample for installation, we will take a plastic drainage system - the most suitable for independent work.

Stage #1 - design and calculations

The nuances of the project directly depend on the type, shape and size of the roof, so you should start by measuring the roof surfaces.

The length of the gutters is selected relative to the length of the slopes, the width and location - based on their area.

In order for precipitation to be fully discharged, the following points should be clarified:

• Number of gutters. A gable roof has two of them, a four-slope roof has four, connected in an inseparable circuit for a more efficient spillway device. If there are more slopes, then a gutter is located under each.
• Number of risers. Traditionally, drainpipes are located at the corners of the task - there can be 2.3 or 4 of them. But if the length of the gutter is more than 12 m, then an additional compensating funnel with a pipe is installed in the center.
• bracket type. Two types are usually used: long ones are mounted on the crate, even before the final roofing is laid, and short ones are fixed on the frontal board - they can be installed at any time, including after construction is completed.
• Slope of horizontal elements. For unhindered draining, the gutters are placed at a slope of 2-4 mm per linear meter by adjusting the brackets - according to the manufacturer's recommendation. A drainage funnel is installed at the bottom.

It largely depends on the location of the risers whether the system can cope with the removal of liquid from the roof. Traditionally, they are installed in the corners, but other options are also possible - with placement in the center, in niches.

In order to properly install funnels and expansion joints, it is necessary to take into account factors such as the number and length of slopes, the angle of inclination, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof

Do not forget about the aesthetic side and the comfort of operation - drainpipes should not protrude far ahead of the facade, go out onto footpaths or used adjacent territory.

Calculations are made individually, universal offers do not exist.

However, there are rules that help to build the system:

• the length of the gutters is calculated according to the length of the cornices, adding 2.5 mm per linear expansion for every 12 m;
• connecting elements for gutters are selected based on the standard length of one element - if you purchase 4-meter gutters for a 12-meter cornice, you will need 2 connectors;
• the number of funnels is determined as follows: one per gutter up to 12 m, for longer ones - one more funnel or compensator;
• the number of brackets depends on the total length of the gutters, taking into account the fact that the installation is carried out at intervals of 0.5-0.6 m; do not forget about additional ones - for funnels;
• the length of the drainpipes is determined by the height of the walls, minus the distance from the gutters to the eaves and from the outlet to the ground surface;
• the number of brackets is also dictated by the height of the building: two are mounted near the outlet and funnel, the rest - with an interval of 1.2-1.5 from them.

Another couple of important dimensions that must be taken into account are the width of the gutters and the diameter of the downpipes.

Due to the protruding cornices, the downpipes have a curved shape. To achieve it, knees are used, which are installed below the eaves and directed towards the facade.

If the slope area does not exceed 80 m², usually no calculations are made, but risers with a diameter of 100 mm are taken as a basis.

Stage # 2 - installation of water intake elements

To install the hook-shaped brackets on which the gutters are usually located, you can remove the outermost row of tiles or other roofing - so that the crate opens.

If this option is not possible, instead of long brackets, short hooks are fixed to the front side of the cornice sheathing.

The holders are fixed in such a way that, as a result of installation, the gutter protrudes beyond the edge of the roofing by at least 2 cm, maximum by 2/3 of its width.

The optimal location of the gutters should prevent the overflow of atmospheric effluents, as well as the accumulation of snow.

Brackets are mounted in the following order:

• preliminary fitting and choice of length/place of installation;
• determination of the angle of inclination towards the catchment funnel;
• holder bending;
• installation of extreme brackets;
• installation of the remaining elements on a pre-tensioned cord.

After mounting the brackets, it is necessary to prepare and install the funnel.

To do this, in the right place, we attach it to the gutter, outline the contour, then remove and drill a hole with a drill with a suitable crown. We clean the edges and connect the funnel with the hole.

For the tightness of the connection, we coat the zone with a width of 0.5-0.7 cm with glue and let it dry. Some types of funnels are equipped with latches for a more secure fit, others are simply superimposed from the outside

Installation of the gutter begins with an element with a funnel already fixed. Then the next one joins it, and so on to the highest point. The gutter elements are joined using connectors.

Despite the tight fit and latches at the edges, the connecting elements and the edges of the gutters are also smeared with glue before contact. Plugs are also placed on the same glue at extreme points that do not end in funnels

Short brackets are mounted differently.

Short holders are fixed directly on the frontal board. The fastener has a movable design that allows you to adjust the angle of inclination if necessary

If the brackets are installed correctly, the installation of water inlets does not take much time. As a result, the gutter should be placed with a small ledge behind the eaves, at an angle towards the funnel.

Stage # 3 - installation of downpipes

The assembly of the riser begins from the top - the transition from the funnel to the vertical pipe. If the cornice protrudes by less than 0.25 m, then the transition element is assembled from a pair of elbows.

Features of installation of knees: the upper element is not glued to the funnel, in order to preserve the possibility of dismantling, a bracket is mounted under the socket connectors

Starting from the funnel and the articulation of the knees, we continue the assembly downwards. Between two adjacent vertical elements connected by a coupling, there must be a gap of at least 20 mm in width - to compensate for linear expansion.

Every 1.2-1.5 m we install clamps for attaching the drain to the wall of the building. Anchor bolts or other fasteners are included with clamps

To prevent abrasion of the drain pipe and holders, the clamps of modern systems are equipped with a dense rubber seal on the inside.

To properly install gutters on the roof, you need to take care of this at the design stage of the building. This will make it possible to choose the optimal version of the system, not only taking into account its cost, but also depending on the engineering features of individual structures. Mainly the type of fastening of gutters, there are options for fixing these elements of drains to the crate, and there are options for attaching to the cornice board. The production of works consists of several stages, each of which has a significant impact on the final quality of fastening gutters and their functionality.

It is impossible to properly install gutters without prior planning. What should be done?

Despite the features of roofing systems and differences in, there are general installation rules for all types of structures.

Weir kit

The complete set and structural characteristics of the systems have a significant impact on the methods of installing gutters on the roof of houses.

What are the main elements of a drain?

Element name	Description and features of the installation
	They are used for fastening gutters, can be fixed to the boards of the batten (hooks) or to the cornice strip (brackets). The first (hooks) are made only from a metal strip, bent to give a slope to the drainage system manually during installation. The main feature is the need for installation before the start of roofing, otherwise the first row of coatings will have to be dismantled. It is now considered an obsolete design and rarely used. More often, brackets are used that are fixed to the cornice board or overhangs of the rafter legs. They can be made from plastic or metal. The most modern models have the ability to fine-tune the position of the gutter after attaching the elements to the board.
	They take water from the slopes and direct it to the funnels. They are mounted around the entire perimeter of the building with a slope of up to 4–5 mm per linear meter. The shape can be round or square, there are options for self-manufacturing gutters. Installation is done after the completion of roofing work. To protect the elements from falling snow, snow guards can be additionally used, this is an active method. A passive method of protecting gutters from mechanical damage is to maintain the difference in height between the continuation of the roof projection and the upper edge of the gutter system element. For proper installation, it is necessary to make preliminary calculations of the roof, the parameters of the gutters are selected depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slopes. Simultaneously with these data, you need to calculate the number of funnels. They must have time to pass all the rainwater during peak loads, one funnel per 10 m of gutter is recommended.
	Most often they have an angle of 90 °, but sometimes they are also found with an angle of 135 °. To seal the junctions with the gutter, rubber or adhesive seals are used. During installation, you should pay attention that the distance from the angles of rotation to the brackets does not exceed 10-15 cm. The strength of the system in these places is lower, a more reliable suspension is required.
	They are installed on gutters and direct the water collected by them into vertical pipes. Proper fastening is impossible without preliminary calculation; installation of one funnel for every 10 m of gutters is considered universal. But a specific decision should be made after a careful analysis of the slope area and maximum precipitation in a given climatic zone. Funnels can be pass-through (mounted anywhere in the gutter) and left or right. The latter are installed only at the ends of the system, the design has special plugs, which simplifies the installation process and increases the reliability of the entire system.
	They allow you to change the direction of the water flow and connect several elements of the system to one vertical pipe. They are inserted into a socket type connection, during installation, attention must be paid to the direction of the elements in relation to the movement of water.
	During installation, it is necessary to monitor the distance between the fixation points of the elements, depending on the material of manufacture and the diameter of the pipe, it ranges from 1.2–1.8 m. The type of fixation to the facade wall changes taking into account the materials of its manufacture. Clamps can be plastic or metal.
	They have different lengths, but most manufacturers adhere to the 3 m standard. The diameter is selected taking into account the debit of water, the quantity, installation locations and total length are calculated even before the installation of the spillway system begins.

Gutter prices

drains

The main mistakes in installing roof gutters

Proper installation of the system guarantees not only high efficiency, but also the durability of the operation of drainage systems. Metal products can be deformed from excessive loads caused by gross violations of the installation technology, while plastic ones crack and require complete replacement.

What mistakes are often made by inexperienced roofers?

1. Incorrect gutter slope. To ensure normal water flow, it is recommended to make a slope of 3–5 mm per linear meter. If the slope is greater, then at the end of the slope the gutter is too far away from the edge of the roofing and water does not enter it. If the slope is insufficient or the mounting line of the brackets is not straight, then stagnant areas are formed. Dust and dirt quickly accumulate in them, then mosses grow, completely blocking the gap of the gutter. As a result, the drainage system stops working, the gutter needs to be cleaned. It is difficult and time-consuming to do this, and it is not always possible to correct the mistake made. Sometimes it is necessary to undermine the installed roof, which always has negative consequences in the future.

   

2. Not enough brackets. All structures are designed for the maximum possible bending load, taking into account these data, manufacturers recommend the optimal distance between fixation points. For plastic structures, the brackets should be at a distance of no more than 50 cm, for metal structures this parameter increases to 60 cm. You never need to save on the number of brackets, the cost of several elements is incomparably lower than the price of eliminating negative consequences.

   

3. Incorrect connection of couplings. Due to the violation of technology, leaks appear in these places. Rubber elements or adhesive joints are used as seals. During installation, maximum efforts should be made to ensure complete tightness and high reliability of all connections. Additional brackets must be installed on both sides of the coupling element.

   

4. Violation of the recommended spatial position of the gutter. If we continue the plane of the roof, then it should pass over the rear edge of the gutter at a distance of approximately 20–25 mm. Why exactly these parameters? Only they simultaneously provide a safe sharp snowfall from the roof and full reception of all rainwater. Reducing the gap will cause snow or ice to damage the integrity of the gutter, and increasing it will cause water not to enter the gutter, but to the ground. Another dimension must be strictly observed - the vertical projection of the edge of the roofing should be located as close as possible to the center of the gutter. The permissible deviation cannot exceed 1/3 of its width. Failure to comply with this parameter also causes rainwater to drain past the drainage system.

   

Each type of system has its own minor structural differences, but they only affect the installation technology, and the principles are common to all.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Video - How to calculate the drainage system?

Step-by-step instructions for installing gutters

Work should begin only after a sketch of the drainage system has been drawn, the fixation points and the number of brackets and clamps have been determined. The sketch contains sections for mounting funnels and vertical drain pipes with all elbows and couplings. The nomenclature and quantity of materials are known, all elements are purchased.

Step 1. Replace the funnel of the drainage system, it should be located at the lowest point of the cornice board.

Before fixing with a bubble level or any level rail, check the correct position of the element. Put a level on the roofing, raise/lower the funnel until its opposite side is set at a distance of ≈ 2 cm from the lower plane of the tool. Mark the places where the funnel is fixed.

Remember that the protrusion of the roof edge should not exceed 1/3 of the gutter diameter. If errors were made during the installation of the cornice (frontal) board or roof, they should be corrected. The best way out is to adjust the position of the board, tear it off and shorten or lengthen the filly of the truss system.

Step 2. Fix the brackets on both sides of the funnel, the distance between the elements is 2–3 cm.

Step 3 Install the brackets for fixing the gutters. In our example, they are plastic and fixed to the cornice board. There is an option of attaching brackets from metal strips to the crate, they must be installed before the roof is covered.

There are two ways to properly mount the brackets.

First.

Second.

The control thread can be pulled with emphasis on the upper surface of the brackets. A specific decision should be made on site, taking into account the location of the elements and the characteristics of the roof of the building.

Slope of brackets 2 cm per 10 m

Practical advice. Well-known manufacturers offer universal hooks for attaching gutters. They are fixed to the crate and have two degrees of adjustment: the vertical position and the angle of inclination. This allows all position parameters to be inserted after the element has been screwed to the truss system and the roof covering has been completed. Metal hooks are also installed up to the roof coverings, but the hooks do not have adjustment, the correct installation process should be done immediately using one of the methods described.

Step 4 After fixing all the brackets, you can proceed with the assembly and installation of the gutter. It is recommended to cut the elements with an ordinary hacksaw for metal or a grinder with an abrasive disc. Clean the ends with a sharp knife, they are easily cut along the line.

Practical advice. To properly install the funnel and connect it to the gutters, use a gas lighter to slightly heat the edges of the cut and, while the plastic is warm, bend it in the right place. Such a simple operation will ensure that the water flows completely from the gutter into the funnel.

On the inside of the funnel there are lines with printed numbers. These marks indicate the optimal position of the ends of the gutters, which corresponds to the air temperature at the time of installation of the elements. Be sure to follow this condition. The fact is that plastics have high coefficients of thermal expansion, if the recommendations are not followed, then there is a risk of swelling or falling out of the funnel.

Important. It is strictly forbidden to glue or use additional sealants to connect the gutters in this type of funnel. Individual elements should be able to move slightly in one direction or another, depending on fluctuations in ambient temperature.

To increase the length of the gutters, special connectors are used, they are glued and snapped into place. You need a special glue, it is sold complete with a drainage system. The swivel corners of the gutters also sit on the glue. Requires at least three strips of adhesive approximately 5 mm thick each. Couplings are put on the gutter and turn until they click. The distance of the brackets to the angle of rotation is not more than 5 cm. In the places where the turns are attached, clamps are additionally installed, they increase the reliability and stability of the assembled units, and exclude the occurrence of excessive bending loads.

Step 6 Install plugs on the gutters, they are also glued with a special compound.

There are options when manufacturers use rubber gaskets instead of glue. This method of sealing is less reliable, rubber parts lose their plasticity over time and leaks may appear in some places. The use of silicone sealants as a supplement is ineffective. Silicone under the influence of moisture and negative temperatures will exfoliate from the plastic in the second year of operation of the spillway system.

If the installation scheme of the drainage system assumes the presence of two ends of the gutters on one slope, then their arrangement is carried out in this order.

This completes the installation of the horizontal elements of the drainage system, you can begin the installation of vertical pipes.

Installation of vertical drainage systems

The complexity of the work is that the vertical outlets have several angles for connecting to the funnel. The number of different turns depends on the architectural features of the building.

Step 1. Measure the distance from the funnel to the wall of the house, pick up two corners and measure the length of the coupling pieces. The missing distance should be increased with a piece of straight pipe. It is cut off with a hacksaw or grinder, the edges must be cleaned of burrs.

Step 2 Glue the upper knee to the funnel, the rest should only be inserted. The upper knee is made non-separable for one reason - in this place it is impossible to fasten the clamp, the knee rests only on the funnel.

Step 3 Mark the locations for attaching the pipe clamps. You can do this in two ways. The first is to beat off a vertical line along the entire height of the house and drill holes for the clamps at the right distance on it. The second is to use a level to mark the installation points of the elements in turn for each clamp, to maintain the vertical position with a level. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages, make a decision on the spot, taking into account your qualifications.

Pipe clamp position mark

Step 4 Drill a hole for the plastic dowel, secure the base of the clamp. Work carefully, with excessive effort, the plastic may crack, you will have to replace the element with a new one.

If the wall of the house has a layer of insulation made of foam or mineral wool, then the length of the dowel should be increased so that there is a hole at least 3 cm deep in the solid wall.

Step 5 Insert the pipe into the corner and fix its position with a clamp. Manufacturers recommend installing at least two clamps on one whole pipe section, it will turn out two on each side near each coupling.

There are letters on the plastic clamps. The upper collar is screwed in such a way that the arrow points to the letter "A" on the stand.

The lower clamp is fixed in the “B” position, the arrow should point to this letter. The fact is that the clamp holders have different thicknesses of the thrust surfaces, the arrow indicates a reinforced one, it is in this direction that the main efforts will act.

If, due to the size of the building, it is required to connect two pipes, then a gap must be left in the coupling for their free movement. The width of the gap is at least two centimeters.

Installation work is completed by gluing a knee for water supply to the blind area, to the receiver of the reclamation system or to a rainwater collection tank. Then it is used for irrigation or for other economic purposes.

Video - Proper installation of the drainage system

The drainage system should be selected at the design stage of the house. This will allow you to calculate all the nuances and correctly select the desired design. Its main role is to protect the foundation of the house from rain. Therefore, it is so important to correctly determine the material from which the drain is made. On average, the service life of a drainage system is from 5 to 100 years. But with improper installation, it can fail much faster. Consider how to properly install a roof drain with your own hands.

Drainage Design Tasks

• First of all, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future roof and each of its slopes is calculated separately. Thanks to the data obtained, the required throughput of the roof drainage system, the diameter of the downpipes and the size of the gutter are determined.
• The next step is to draw up a preliminary plan for the placement of drainage elements, which will determine the sequence of work, calculate the number of components and their approximate location. For greater convenience, this is done on a copy of the roof drawing.
• It is also important to choose the right material from which the gutters for the roof are made. Due to the wide variety of options, making a choice is not so easy. To a greater extent, it depends on the general appearance of the house and the aesthetic ideas of its owner. In terms of service life, inexpensive plastic drains are practically not inferior to metal ones. But they are unlikely to look harmonious with real tiles or copper roofing.

Components of the drainage system

brackets

With their help, the gutter of the drainage system is attached to the roof. They are produced in different shapes and from different materials, but the color completely matches the entire drainage system.

Depending on the shape, they can be fixed in several ways:

• the simplest and most commonly used method is to attach the bracket to the frontal roof board. Thus, the gutter is easily installed on an already finished roof. Basically, such brackets are completed with PVC systems. Thanks to highly developed vertical ribs, they are able to withstand heavy loads. In metal structures, brackets for this type of fastening are made short. In the absence of a frontal board, combined brackets are suitable. They have steel extensions, with which they are attached directly to the rafter leg. When access to the rafters is not possible, special metal crutches are mounted into the wall, and a gutter is attached to them with the help of studs.
• With the second method of installation, the drain is mounted before laying the roofing material. The gutter is attached to the rafter leg. This method is rational for roofs with a large area, on which heavy roofing is used. For reliable fastening, the step between the rafters should not exceed 600 mm.

• The third option is optimal for roofs where the distance between the rafters exceeds 600 mm. In most cases, these are roofs coated with metal tiles or ondulin. This method involves the use of combined brackets or long hooks that are attached to the first lath of the batten or to the lower edge of the deck (if shingles are used). Only compliance with the rules and procedures for installing hooks will ensure the reliability and durability of the structure.

Gutters

They also come in different forms. There is a round, semicircular, rectangular, oval or combined section. It is important that the gutters and hooks have the same shape and are from the same system.

A symmetrical gutter is considered universal, to which it will not be difficult to pick up components. This will simplify the work even at the stage of designing and calculating the required number of components of the system.

In addition, they are distinguished by the method of connection with the bracket. The fastest way to assemble will be a system with a simple snap. It is equipped with swivel latches, thanks to which it will be possible to easily dismantle a certain part of the gutter for repair or replacement.

When choosing them, linear fluctuations in their dimensions should also be taken into account (especially when choosing PVC structures). To compensate for them, couplings are produced, on the inside of which there are notches.

Tip: gutters made of PVC do not connect end-to-end - this can lead to cracks and breakage.

Despite the fact that the gutter made of metal has a much lower thermal expansion, during its installation a coupling is also used as a compensator.

To protect the gutters from icing, they are insulated or a system of electric heating cables is installed.

Seals

They are made from ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) rubber. This is a modern analogue of the rubber mixture for the tightness of the joints. It has high elasticity, which allows you to restore its original shape even after prolonged use.

It is moisture resistant and unaffected by the environment. Most often, the seals are coated with silicone grease, which makes installation easier and additionally protects the rubber.

Drainage funnels

As the name implies, their function is to collect water flowing down the gutters and direct it into the drainpipes. In PVC systems, they are made as a separate part. In addition, the funnels are divided into left, right and through passages. The left and right have a wall that acts as a gutter plug and are installed at the end, and the through passages are installed anywhere.

In a metal drainage system, funnels can be placed anywhere, but you will need to cut a round hole under it.

They look like a short bent pipe. They are used to connect drainpipes and funnels, as well as to drain water from the foundation. On average, each drainpipe will need three elbows: two at the top and one at the bottom.

Downspouts

They can be rectangular or round. This does not affect their functionality in any way and depends only on the design of the facade of the house and the entire drainage system. Their length varies from 1 to 4 meters. The main difference between PVC pipes and metal pipes is that they have the same diameter along the entire length. This means that couplings will be needed to attach them to each other, which will lead to additional costs.

Clamps

With their help, pipes are attached to the facade of the building. They are made of different materials and different shapes: plastic with two points of support, metal with one long hardware, snapped into place when around the pipe or with screwed elements.

Materials for the drainage system

The price of gutters for the roof depends primarily on the material from which they are made. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at each type.

Plastic

This is a modern material that is durable, lightweight and easy to process. The dyes that are used in its production retain color saturation throughout the entire period of operation declared by the manufacturer, which is about 20-40 years. In addition, it has a low price.

Plastic drainage systems are made from several types of polymers:

• PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
• nPCV - unplasticized polyvinylchloride;
• PE - polyethylene;
• PP - polypropylene.

They are resistant to mechanical damage and UV radiation. They are not subject to corrosion and do not require additional care.

Steel

Galvanized steel is the most popular due to its low price and availability, but has an ugly appearance and is short-lived. Much more practical gutter systems made of galvanized steel with a polymer coating. They are stronger than plastic structures, and thanks to the coating they are durable. They are made from the same material as the metal tile. In most cases, they are either white or brown, other colors are painted only on individual order.

Copper

The most expensive, but durable and beautiful material. The service life can reach IV centuries. To prevent the formation of electrolytic fumes that destroy copper, all components must be made of the same material. Contact with titanium zinc or galvanized steel is especially dangerous for her. Over time, copper changes color to green, which does not affect its performance.

Aluminum

Lightweight and durable material that can be dyed any color. Its service life exceeds 50 years.

Zinc-titanium

This light alloy has a shiny surface. It is very durable and can be used in regions with extreme weather conditions. But in working with it, you will need to follow a number of rules. Zinc-titanium should not come into contact with PVC, vapor barrier membranes and roofing material. Work with it is prohibited at metal temperatures below +10°C. This is a very expensive material, so all work must be done by professionals.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

After the material is selected, the calculation of the amount of required materials begins. Consultants in companies selling gutter systems or a roofing company that performs installation work can help you with this. But you can do it yourself.

First, the number of gutters is calculated. Their total length corresponds to the length of all roof slopes from which water will be collected. Knowing the length of the slopes, it is easy to calculate the required number of drain funnels. On average, one is installed for every 10 meters.

The number of drainpipes also depends on the number of funnels. Their length is equal to the distance from ground level to the roof.

The number of turns is determined by the feature of the facade and is calculated individually. You can always buy the missing items.

Clamps and brackets are very easy to calculate. You will need one bracket for every meter of gutter. The number of clamps depends on the height of the building, the main rule is that each individual section of the pipe must be fixed with at least one clamp.

Do-it-yourself installation of gutters on the roof

To install metal gutters for the roof, you will need the following tools:

• hammer;
• marking cord;
• universal screwdriver;
• tape measure from 3 meters long;
• pipe pliers;
• hook bender;
• hacksaw for metal.

It is not recommended to cut metal pipes and gutters with a grinder. Since the polymer coating heats up during cutting, which will lead to damage to the elements of the drain.

Installation steps:

• determination of the location of the brackets (gutter holders). The distance between them should be 40-50 cm;
• marks are made on the brackets that determine the slope of the gutter, which is 5 mm per 1 m. It is worth noting that, according to the instructions, one downpipe can serve no more than 10 meters of the gutter;
• brackets are bent according to the finished marks. The fastest way to do this is with a hook bender. Then two extreme brackets are installed, and a cord is pulled between them, along which all other holders are installed;
• preparing the gutter for installation. A gutter of the required length is assembled from the components. It is possible that for this you will have to saw off the excess with a hacksaw. But before it is installed on the roof, the parts are not fastened together. For a drain funnel, you will need to cut a hole at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the gutter in the shape of the letter V and with a diameter of 10 cm;
• the outlet funnel for the downpipe is mounted. Its outer edge is brought under the curved drainage chute and pressed tightly. Then the flange petals of the funnel are bent;

• chute is installed. Alternately, all the components of the gutter are laid on ready-made brackets and attached. Further, a cornice strip is attached to the crate in such a way that its lower edge descends into the gutter. And the edge of the roofing waterproofing starts over the cornice strip. Due to this, all the condensate that may form in the under-roof space will enter the drainage system;

• the connection of the gutters of the drain is overlapped on each other by 20-30 mm. Rubber seals provide additional tightness to the joints;
• a protective mesh is installed on the spillway, which will protect it from debris. It is mounted in the hole of the outlet funnel in the gutter and is called a spider;
• overflow limiter installation. They are necessary in the places of the gutter, which are located under the fragments of roofs with adjoining;
• fastening of connecting pipes. This design involves connecting two knees of the drainage system to each other. The length of the connecting pipe is calculated individually;
• fastening of drainpipes. First, holders (clamps) are mounted to the wall of the house from below, above and at the pipe junctions. The distance between the drain elbow and the blind area is about 30 cm.

Installation of a drainage system with rectangular gutters

Their installation is a more laborious process. To connect the individual parts, you will need rivets (riveter) and sealant.

System differences:

• the weir funnel is attached to the gutter with rivets and sealant. The hole is cut cross-shaped or round.
• the plug, corners and gutters of the drain are also fastened with rivets and sealant.

Homemade gutter for the roof

For a small summer house, you can make budget weirs with your own hands. For example, by making them from galvanized drywall profiles without holes. They come in different sizes, so choosing the right one is quite simple. The profiles are folded in a “box”, and the excess is cut off with metal scissors.

Not only manufacturing, but also fixing the drain to the roof will not take much time. Mounting galvanized tape 2 mm thick with holes is fastened under the roof overhang. It is fixed on bolts, rivets or screws. Then bending the fasteners, the required level of inclination is reached.

As a result of a home-made gutter device from the roof, an inconspicuous but durable structure is obtained.

Gutters for the roof photo

Drainage of waste water from the roof is a mandatory task to ensure the longevity of the roof. For this, a roof drainage system is installed. You can do the work yourself or involve specialists for this purpose.

Atmospheric precipitation accumulates on the surface of the roof, which causes its destruction over time. This is especially true for buildings with a shed or flat roof. Of course, you can initially build a truss system at a certain angle, thanks to which drains will be naturally discharged from the surface of the house. But then the foundation may be washed away, due to a strong flow of water from the roof.

Photo - drain for the house

Benefits of using a gutter:

1. Increasing the efficiency of roof self-cleaning. When installed correctly, regardless of the coating material, maximum liquid drainage is ensured;
2. Protection of the building from undermining. You can direct the drain pipes to the drain or to the garden in the country, which will help protect the foundation of the building;
3. Extending the durability of metal and bituminous roofs. Regardless of the coating material, it is destroyed by prolonged exposure to moisture.

The quality of the coating does not depend on the material used. The fact is that under certain conditions you need to use the Modern metal profile (with a large amount of wastewater), and in some - plastic (if you live in regions with sudden temperature changes). Sometimes sandwich panels are also used.

Photo - water flow with pressure

Construction and materials

Depending on the chosen type of drain, the system may consist of various additional elements. Main details:

1. Gutters;
2. funnels;
3. Branches and plugs;
4. fasteners;
5. Couplings.

Photo - design of the drainage system

Each of these details has its purpose. Guide pipes are necessary to ensure the drainage of water to a certain place on the site and the intake of excess fluid from the roof. Galvanized metal and PVC are used for gutters. Funnels complement the main pipes, they are necessary to create a certain angle on the roof, with which the maximum amount of liquid will fall into the gutter.

According to SNiP, for a complex roof, it is imperative to use various bends and tees. They will help to create the most effective method of water intake from the roof surface. Installation of the entire system is carried out using brackets, self-tapping screws and other fasteners.

Video: how to install gutters yourself

Gutter installation

Before starting work, you need to calculate how much water you need to drain from the roof. Please note that this indicator does not affect the installation process itself, but is necessary when choosing a specific ready-made drainage system (Hunter, Galeco and others).

Step-by-step instruction how to make a do-it-yourself installation of a storm drainage system:

1. Brackets are installed first. Mounts are installed on the front board. To ensure that all hooks are located at the desired level, we recommend that after installing the first one, stretch the thread. According to the rules of SNiP, the minimum distance from the lowest rail should be no more than 25 mm;
2. The mounting technology of the fasteners necessarily includes taking into account the slope of the entire system. For every 10 meters, you need to tilt up to 5 cm. It turns out, after installing the bracket, determine the mounting location for the next part and mount it 5 cm lower than the previous one;
3. Bracket installer recommendations:
   • Be sure to observe the average selected distance. During the rainy or thaw season, a large amount of water will pass through the drain, so it is important that it is as rigidly fixed as possible;
   • On average, the hook pitch is no more than half a meter;
   • The general slope should be done gradually, without sudden transitions.
4. Further, in the places where the pipes are installed, water intake funnels must be mounted. They are rectangular and round. There are different ways to install them. For example, a special glue is used for a plastic structure, and clamps for a metal one;

   
   Photo - water intake funnel

5. In the receiving gutters, it is imperative to install a grate that will help protect the drains from dirt, fallen leaves and other debris;
6. It remains to connect the gutters and brackets. Pipes are threaded into fasteners using grooved holes. There are such in TechnoNIKOL systems. It is necessary to clamp the pipe until it clicks;
   
   
7. For galvanized steel and PVC siding (Plastmo, Murol) rubber plugs should be used. These details will help ensure the desired operation of the system. They are put on at the very end of the gutter;

   
   Photo - stubs

8. The guide for builders states that it is necessary to fix the gutter after installing the gutter between them. This will require special couplings and seals that will increase the efficiency and rigidity of the system;

   Photo - clamps

9. After that, drain knees are attached to the panels. These parts of the outlet will help ensure that water drains from the roof at a certain angle and connect the various parts of the system together. The rules for their installation state that the distance between the pipe and the wall should be no more than 35 mm;

   Photo - knee

10. Next, the schema is fixed as a constructor. To the very bottom of the system, the knees are threaded into each other and strengthened with clamps. If you use a metal profile (Ruflex, Alta-Profile or Rainway), then you must additionally install brackets to increase the rigidity of the drain;
11. It should be noted that the clamps for mounting the drain on the wall of the house differ from the standard ones. They can be attached to bricks or foam blocks with dowels and self-tapping screws;
12. The last step for installing a gutter system for a slate or tile roof is the installation of a drip. It represents the knee turned to the other side. In order not to have to dismantle afterwards, you need to calculate in advance the distance of the edge of the drain to the drain. 30-35 cm is considered optimal.

Tips from professionals for plumbing installation:

1. Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the surface. Treat the boards with antiseptics and varnishes to extend their durability;
2. If the roof requires repair, then before installing the gutter system, you need to finish it. Otherwise, a leaking roof will negatively affect the efficiency of the drain;
3. If you cannot cope with the task on your own, you can turn to specialists for help. Calling a brigade will cost about 10,000 rubles per object.

Price overview

There are a wide variety of drains on the market today. The Bryza (Breeze), Braas, Docke, Icopal Wijo TBS system (with additional insulation) and others are very popular. Their advantage is durability, as well as the fact that they can be installed on shingles, slates, metal profiles, and even provide drainage on the balcony.

Photo - drain Ruukki 125

Consider what is the price for installing a drainage system in different cities (the cost is indicated for Ruukki 125 mm pipes):

Prices may vary depending on the required diameter of the gutters. The total estimate can also be reduced by using non-professional brackets and couplings.

The drainage system involves the collection and disposal of precipitation, as well as melt water, but the possibilities of such systems do not end there, since they can be used to direct the liquid directly into the storm sewer. As a result, atmospheric precipitation does not fall on the walls, while ensuring the safety of the blind area. In addition, the accumulation of water near the foundation and in basements is excluded, which guarantees an extension of the life of the building.

In this article, we will look at some types of rain sewers, and also learn how to make them yourself.

The design of the gutter assumes the presence of special gutters for the removal of precipitation, which are installed along the perimeter of the roof using brackets. Due to the fact that the storm drain repeats the configuration of the upper element of the building along its base, there are both external and internal corners. At the same time, all elements of the system are interconnected with sufficient tightness, which is provided by rubber seals.

Many consider such elements to be superfluous, since the option of overlapping the gutters is available, when one part overlaps another by at least 30 cm, and their connection is carried out by means of self-tapping screws.

To ensure the removal of precipitation, holes are made in certain places of the gutter, necessary for the installation of funnels. After that, sewer pipes are connected to the installed cone-shaped devices, that is, they are integrated into the overall system.

When the roof has a large overhang, a curved cylindrical product is used, which is possible with the help of additional elements in the form of knees and special rings. The downpipe is mounted on the wall of the house with clamps.

The result of such an assembly is the creation of a system of the required configuration. For self-arrangement of storm water, you will need a plan of the house with its exact dimensions. This will allow you to understand what elements will need to be purchased for the future design, as well as determine their quantity.

Kinds

Drainage systems may differ in the method of installation and the material used. In the first case, the water drainage facility is classified as home-made and industrial, and in the second - as plastic and metal.

Homemade drain

An independent solution to the issue of arranging rainwater drainage has certain advantages. Such a system can turn out not only beautiful, but also original. You can realize almost any fantasy in terms of creating a structure to protect your home from water. In this case, it is worth considering some nuances.

A home-made system requires significant costs and regular maintenance, since its arrangement is usually carried out using galvanizing, which quickly begins to rot. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the certain complexity of joining some elements.

We tried to take into account the frequent mistakes of the masters and below are the installation rules.

Factory drain

Buying a factory rainwater system will save you from many problems of non-compliance with standards and parameters. When purchasing certain elements of the drain from one manufacturer, you do not have to worry that they will not fit each other, since the factory is distinguished by the release of standardized products.

Plastic drain

Plastic-based systems are glued, which involves the installation of storm sewers with glue, and glueless, assembled using rubber seals. Regardless of the choice of installation method, plastic gutters have the following advantages:

• resistance to ultraviolet radiation;
• no corrosion;
• strength;
• light weight;
• wide operating temperature range - from -40 °C to +70 °C;
• the possibility of creating a drain of any configuration, which is due to a rich assortment of components;
• lack of need for regular care;
• ease of installation;
• variety of color solutions.

However, plastic also has a number of disadvantages, including the following:

• poor resistance to mechanical stress, which excludes the possibility of installing a plastic structure on high-rise buildings;
• regular replacement of rubber seals, which can be carried out exclusively by disassembling the problem area and reassembling after the malfunction has been eliminated;
• the inability to restore one or another destroyed tool, which characterizes such systems as insufficiently repairable;
• significant linear expansion of plastic elements.

metal drain

Storm sewers made of metal differ from each other in that they can be galvanized, copper and with a zinc layer supplemented with a polymer coating. The choice of a particular type of design is based on characteristics such as price and service life. In any case, metal gutters are good because they:

The disadvantages of such systems include:

• significant weight of the gutter structure as a whole;
• a small number of components, which makes it difficult to install such systems on roofs that have angles other than 90 degrees;
• installation complexity;
• high price;
• a small selection of colors;
• susceptibility to corrosion (except for copper systems);

It is quite difficult to determine which drain is better, since a lot depends on various factors, for example, operating conditions. At the same time, it is necessary to understand that it is not the cost of the structure that is of primary importance, but its compliance with the quality parameters.

Do-it-yourself gutter from various materials

Below are a few examples of how to make a rain drain for a roof yourself. This lesson is not difficult, the main thing is to have a desire to do such work, understand the process of creating a system and know some options for executing the plan. For example, a drain can be made from a sewer pipe, tin, sheet metal, wood, polyethylene, etc.

Sewage pipe

In order to correctly calculate the gutter parameters in accordance with the expected rainfall intensity, it is necessary to determine the effective roof area. If such calculations cause you difficulties, you can use the average values, which involves the preparation of the following elements of the system:

• plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 mm for arranging water drainage;
• a cylindrical product with a thickness of 100 to 110 mm, necessary for the manufacture of gutters;
• adapters that make it possible to connect the above-mentioned elements to each other when the diameter reaches 110 mm at the inlet and 50 mm at the outlet.

Since a sewer pipe made of plastic was taken for the manufacture of gutters, it will need to be opened into two halves that are the same size. To do this, you can use a grinder, an electric jigsaw or a hand saw. The first option is preferred, but there are some process nuances here.

If you cut the pipe with a grinder, then plastic will inevitably stick to a special casing, so it is advisable to dismantle this safety element. As a result, it is recommended to use other protection, part of which is a mandatory face mask. Although there is a more optimal solution to the problem - to buy a special disc designed to work with plastic.

For a high-quality connection of gutters and tees, do not open the pipe to the end: leave about 150 mm at the edges.

Metal

A sheet of metal is taken and folded into strips so that their width is 25 cm. Then these parts are shaped into a gutter, that is, they bend accordingly. The use of galvanized sheet or tin implies the mandatory manufacture of durable steel brackets. To do this, you can use a wire rod (6 mm), but then you have to double the number of hooks.

Making your own brackets should not be difficult. To do this, it is enough to take a saw cut of a log with a diameter of 20 cm or more and wind the wire around it, making about three turns. After that, it is necessary to remove the resulting workpiece and compress it. Then you need to bend the edge of the structure by 4 cm to fix it on the roof, and shape the rest of the part in accordance with the required profile.

With the help of the same screws, the brackets are installed on the roof. Then the gutters are suspended and the water collectors are leveled to form the desired slope.

Wood and polyethylene

As a starting material for the construction of this type of drain, a thin board should be used, the total length of which would be equal to the double perimeter in relation to the roof overhang. After that, you can proceed to the direct manufacture of the drain:

1. Connect the boards in pairs with nails at an angle of 90 degrees.
2. Assemble gutters that match the length of the walls of the house, which must be overlapped.
3. Make fasteners for installing gutters in the form of hooks using boards or wire rod. The best solution would be to use not a wire, but a piece of lumber, the use of which involves cutting triangular grooves that serve to fasten the gutter.
4. Fasten the brackets to the corners of the wall, e.g. with nails.
5. Install narrow channels that direct rainwater from the top of the building, respecting the overlap of their edges.
6. Adjust the slope of the gutters and lay a plastic film in them, securing it with shoe nails, buttons or adhesive tape.

A wooden gutter is quite suitable for the manufacture of a drainpipe, if its length is at least 2.5 m. When digging a ditch, a slope should be created that contributes to the removal of precipitation from the wall of the house at a distance of at least 1.5 m.

A wooden weir from the roof will last longer if, to ensure tightness, you use not a plastic film, but a silicone sealant, having previously treated the wood with a preservative composition.

Installation nuances

After all the blanks are made, we will consider in more detail how to equip the drainage system with our own hands. The brackets are mounted with the obligatory creation of a slope towards the funnels, when, taking into account the running meter, a vertical displacement of 5 mm is assumed. If there is a need to accelerate the flow of water, this slope can be increased to 10 mm.

If the length of the pediment does not exceed 10 m, a slope is made to one of the sides. A greater value involves the installation of an additional funnel installed in the middle with a downpipe connected to it to form a drain. But it is also possible to make two slopes of the gutter coming from the middle of the gable.

To install gutters you need:

• fix the first bracket at the point of maximum height of the sewerage system;
• fix the second, taking into account the fact that it will be below the first, thereby creating the required slope;
• between the installed brackets, pull the twine, which serves as a guide for marking the attachment points for other supporting parts of this type.

The described process of installing storm sewers looks quite simple in terms of its implementation, but there are certain nuances. To create a slope, they are mainly guided by the horizontal, which is the front board, known as the wind board.

But is it always installed with strict horizontality? It is desirable to verify this, for example, using a hydraulic level or level. You can also use a simple version in the form of a bubble device, but only on condition that its length is 1 m or more.

Installation of a metal drain

Mounting a metal structure is a little more complicated. The system is equipped in compliance with a certain order of work: first hooks are installed, then funnels are cut in, gutters are connected to each other, plugs and other elements are used to form the system as such, including connecting drain pipes.

Hooks

The installation of long hooks at the stage of building a house, that is, before the roof is laid, is the predominant fastening of these parts to the rafters. If the upper element of the building cover is already equipped, short rods are used, the installation site of which is the frontal board.

The use of long hooks is preferable, as this allows you to give the system additional strength. In any case, regardless of the type of fastening, the hook installation step should be observed - from 600 to 900 mm. If this is not followed, the system is likely to collapse due to the load created by the snow. To calculate the required number of hooks, there is a simple formula:

n=L/b

where L is the distance that determines the distance between the first two installed metal rods from each other, b is the installation step of the supporting parts of the type in question.

The number of hooks required during the construction of the gutter system is calculated not only using the above formula, but also taking into account the fact that these supporting parts must be present at the joints of the gutter and at its ends.

To create a flow of collected water towards the funnel, the system is given a slope of 5 mm per linear meter of the gutter. As a result, there is a need for vertical displacement of fasteners, which can be calculated using the following formula:

h = 0.005 x L,

where L is the distance available between the extreme hooks.

For example, with a gutter length of 10 m, a vertical offset of 5 cm will be determined. The installation of the so-called starting hooks is carried out taking into account the vertical offset. The installation of other supporting parts is carried out along the line, which is marked with a twine stretched between two hooks originally installed.

Before proceeding with the installation of these parts, it is advisable to check how the position of the cornice corresponds to the horizontal level, as this may affect the accuracy of the layout. Hooks must be fastened with a distance of at least 25 mm between the line created by the roof slope and the edge of the gutter looking outward.

Funnels

Mark the places for mounting the funnels, and then cut out the holes in the shape of the letter V. If it is planned to install a drain 125 by 90 mm, then the width of such openings should be from 100 to 110 mm. When mounting a structure 150 by 100 mm - from 120 to 130 mm. In this case, it is necessary to observe the distance of the top edge of the gutter from the cutout in accordance with a minimum distance of 15 mm.

Stubs

Installation of such devices is carried out at the ends of the gutter. The implementation of this process involves the direct installation of a plug, followed by sealing the connection using a special silicone compound. Greater density can be given due to the effectiveness of the rubber mallet.

gutters

Using a hook, fasten the gutter by driving its inner edge into the retainer and ensuring that the outer edge is held due to the lamellar type of this fastener.

Such installation involves fastening the gutter, observing that the outer edge of this element of the system must be 6 mm lower than the inner one. Setting the proposed angle of inclination is necessary to exclude the possibility of water ingress on the facade during heavy rainfall.

The roof covering in this case should be above the gutter, capturing 50 mm of its width. At the same time, the slope line should not reach the edge of the gutter by 40 mm. Although a run-up is usually formed due to the fact that the narrow channel is installed at a slope, that is, at the top of the gutter it can be 20 mm, and at the bottom - 70 mm.

Upon completion of the installation of the channel that collects and directs water from the roof of the building, a cornice strip is installed. Its lower edge should hang over the gutter, as this eliminates the possibility of the front board getting wet.

Connectors and corners

Special connectors make it possible to connect the gutters. As part of such elements there are rubber gaskets, which not only guarantee the tightness of the docking, but also eliminate the negative effects of thermal expansion.

Gutters should be fixed with the condition that there will be a gap of 3 to 4 mm between them. Direct installation of connectors involves the following set of actions: bend the lock at an angle within 90 degrees; install the device so that its rolled side is put on the back of the gutter; align the product and snap the lock.

Downspouts

This stage involves the mandatory installation of at least 2 brackets with a step of 1 m. The supporting parts must be installed at the joints of the pipes and where the elbow is mounted.

If the walls of the house are wooden or the material they are made of is rather soft, then the brackets are fixed with self-tapping screws. With regard to concrete and brick walls, the installation of supporting parts involves the use of a drill.

The final installation process is the connection of the elbow of the cylindrical product, the drain and connecting pipes, as well as the drain elbow. Given that the connecting pipe is crimped on both sides, the product may well be used when installing two risers, since it is available for cutting.

If there is a need to get a connecting pipe about 90 cm long, for this it is enough just to get rid of the upper crimp, that is, cut it off. The height of the drain elbow from the ground level should be no more than 200 mm, as this avoids water splashing.

The last nuances of installing the system are connecting the sewer pipe to the funnel and snapping the bracket locks.

Installation of drainage cylindrical products should be carried out by crimping down, which is necessary in order to eliminate the possibility of leakage.

PVC gutter installation

There is nothing complicated in installing this design, however, some nuances must be taken into account:

• indicate how the system will be placed, taking into account the fact that the entire volume of precipitation collected from the roof should fall into it;
• determine the location of funnels and corners;
• install the first bracket at the highest point in relation to the cone;
• using twine and a level, determine a horizontal line passing through the point where the bracket is installed, and, starting from it, set the slope;
• install the last support part and connect it to the first one with twine;
• to mount other brackets in compliance with the step of 40 cm, adhering to the marked slope line.

1. Gutter installation:

• prepare a narrow channel by making segments from it of the required length;
• connect the components of the drain using the appropriate elements or glue;
• install the gutter on the brackets, using the latches and avoiding the joints of both the channels themselves and the funnels getting on these supporting elements;
• install plugs.

1. Installation of a sewerage system:

• connect the pipe to the gutter by diverting the drain;
• align the vertical of the cylindrical structure with a plumb line and square;
• fix the pipes forming the structure for removing precipitation in order to determine the installation locations of the clamps with a step of 1 m, but with the obligatory location of the upper part on the line of the first joint;
• fix the connecting elements on the wall, taking into account the fact that the sewer pipe after installation will be 2 cm away from the side structure of the house;
• mount the drain socket on the hatch, but without rigid fixation, so that the drain can be controlled.

We tried to touch on all the nuances of installing a rain sewer. A number of works are quite difficult to carry out alone, so it is recommended to use a partner.